Vancouver Sun

Gluten-hunting trip results in several treasures


Last week I was a promiscuou­s bakery hound, prowling around Richmond, Vancouver and even Squamish, a gluten-seeking missile.

I went for lunch at Origo Club in Richmond (, but with an ulterior motive of trying some of Remi Ho’s pastries; he honed his craft at high-end spots such as Cioppino’s, Chez Christophe and Secret Location.

I loved, loved his velvety cheese tart with just a hint of sweet. Apparently, he had something similar in Tokyo that he deemed brilliant and this is his effort to make the same. I also had a cream puff with matcha white chocolate ganache, mochi and dulce de leche, another winner. My beverage of choice was a beautiful Lapsang Souchang tea that was like a peaty scotch.

Also last week, Origo Club began afternoon tea, available Fridays and Saturdays from 1:30 to 4 p.m. for $45; the pastries and savouries are artfully presented on sculptural tiered shelves.

Next, I visited the tiny Fife Bakery ( on East Third Avenue in a semi-industrial neighbourh­ood of Vancouver where 20-something baker Felix Yau makes some of the city’s best bread. But this time, I went for savouries. The cheese and spinach tart was fine, but a sausage roll with Oyama sausage was delicious.

Since L’Atelier Patisserie (latelierpa­ over on East Fifth Avenue is within a bread’sthrow distance of Fife, I went to try its croissant. I’m always appreciati­ve of a good croissant discovery. It was very good, and so was a pain au raisin. (Oh, I also got croissants at Origo and they, too, had that shatter exterior and moist, buttery interior pockets of air.) Love this little place with the friendly owner from Marseilles; it reminds me of patisserie­s in little French villages.

And finally, I discovered Tall Tree Bakery in Squamish (talltreeba­, next door to Backcountr­y Brewing, when I was headed there for a pint and some food. Alas, it was near closing and since I was headed to dinner, I didn’t buy anything, but the website shows all kinds of artisanal breads, pastries and savouries.

Next trip up, I’m going in!

 ??  ?? Afternoon tea is served at Origo Club on Fridays and Saturdays.
Afternoon tea is served at Origo Club on Fridays and Saturdays.

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