Vancouver Sun

MEAD ME FOR A SIP

Saskatchew­an’s 1st craft operation makes beverage as sweet as honey

- RYAN MCKENNA

CARON, SASK. Meads have been around for a long time, but there had not been a craft meadery in Saskatchew­an until Prairie Bee Meadery opened in June 2016.

The province has always been a leading producer of honey, which is combined with water to make mead — an alcoholic beverage that is also known as honey wine.

There have been several variations of mead produced by Saskatchew­an breweries over the years, but never by a dedicated meadery.

Owners Dennis and Vickie Derksen along with Crystal and Gerard Milburn started with a U Pick farm off the Trans-Canada Highway in Caron, Sask., with cherry trees in 2012.

The Derksens then realized they needed pollen eaters for the trees and were instantly hooked on bee keeping.

“The very first year we got the bees and we had fruit, we thought ‘Gee, fruit and honey, why don’t we make mead?’” Vickie said.

After getting establishe­d with the U Pick and making meads on the side, the Derksens decided in 2015 they would attempt making small batches of mead and selling it commercial­ly.

Here’s a look at how Prairie Bee Meadery operates:

MAKING THE MEAD

On a recent October morning, Dennis and his daughter Crystal prepare to make 4,000 bottles of cherry mead in the back of the U Pick shop.

In two white baskets, there’s a combined 1,361 kilograms of cherries. A lot of them are from the Derksens’ garden, but they also buy from other Saskatchew­an producers when supplies are low.

The fruit is frozen and thawed when it’s ready to be used.

Buckets full of cherries are unloaded into a presser and mixed with rice hulls to squeeze the juice out of the fruit. The juice flows into a bucket and a hose transfers the liquid into a giant tank for future use. It’s a messy process with juice sprawled onto the floor and dyed into workers’ hands.

In the next room over, barrels of honey are warmed with electric blankets. Each barrel contains about 295 kg and three to four are needed for a batch.

Vickie said the bees are what makes the end result special. That includes keeping their bees close to clovers, alfalfa and wildflower­s for the best flavour.

“The quality of our honey is paramount to us,” she said. “That’s really it.”

NEXT STEPS

In the same room where the presser is located, a tiny chemistry lab is tucked into the corner.

Tests are performed on the liquid to see what the sugar levels are and what the acidity is. These tests allow the business to know how the yeast will react and how much alcohol content you’ll have at the end.

After the distilling process is complete, a two-day task of bottling the mead takes place. An assembly line is set up for a bottle filler, a corker, capsule placer and labeller.

WHAT THE CRITICS SAY

Prairie Bee Meadery has entered into the Drink Outside the Grape competitio­n for three straight years and won a medal each time.

Competitio­n chair Richard Leahy said the purity of fruit and honey expression along with the balance of acidity with their wines are some of the things he likes.

Joseph A. Fiola was a judge for the competitio­n and liked how the business had a diversity of flavours. Prairie Bee Meadery will have 11 different flavours by mid-November and their haskap is a top seller.

“It wasn’t supposed to smell and taste like fermented honey when they did it and that’s what makes these a cut above the average meads that are out there,” Fiola said.

EXPANSION

The business expanded out of their farm in December 2016 when they rented out store space in Moose Jaw, Sask., to sell more product.

They’ve consulted with wine expert Dominic Rivard since beginning operations and continue to do so as they consider expansion.

Automation to make more mead is an option while they’re also looking to get into restaurant­s and other provinces. You can buy the product online although regulation­s permit them to ship to certain parts of Canada.

 ?? MICHAEL BELL/THE CANADIAN PRESS ?? Crystal Milburn handles the sour cherries and rice hulls left at the end of a juice press at Prairie Bee Meadery near Moose Jaw, Sask., the province’s first craft meadery.
MICHAEL BELL/THE CANADIAN PRESS Crystal Milburn handles the sour cherries and rice hulls left at the end of a juice press at Prairie Bee Meadery near Moose Jaw, Sask., the province’s first craft meadery.

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