IT'S TIME TO CONTEMPLATE YOUR HOLIDAY BUBBLY BUYS
I’ve been holding off on launching our annual series of holiday columns as long as possible to not contribute to the onslaught of holiday madness, but under the pretence of preparation is everything, it’s time to begin. If you’re not ready to shop yet you can stash the story on your phone or your computer until you are. For the faithful who read a physical newspaper everyday you can clip this article and stick it on the fridge as a homage to the past or a curiosity for the visiting grandchildren.
Looking back over the trends of 2018 it’s hard not to notice that if any one category has grown into a mainstream drinks player it would have to be sparkling wine. There are numerous styles to choose from and in more than any other category price is a reasonable guide to quality. They all contain bubbles, but it’s how the bubbles are made that creates the difference in style and price.
To keep it simple there are two major styles, those made in tank and injected with carbon dioxide, and those re-fermented inside the bottle creating and trapping the tiny bubbles naturally. With few exceptions the latter is more expensive than the former, but the quality gap at all levels is closing. But what to buy? That is the question. Here are some personal favourites tasted this year to check out and store away to add some sparkle to that impromptu holiday party or dinner in the coming weeks.
Locally, we have come a long way in a brief time. How good is the Haywire Vintage Bub 2013, $34.90? A special release with five-years extra aging, it’s turning heads in wine circles for its sophistication and class. The Tantalus Old Vines Riesling Brut 2015, $34.70 is similarly impressive from its aromatic fruit nose to its yeasty, chalky, mineral notes that pair with anything. That goes ditto for the electric Cipes Blanc de Blancs 2012, $46 certified organic vineyard Chardonnay that spends 48 months on the lees. Equally fresh and impressive are the Fitz Brut Sparkling Wine 2015, $32.99 made at Greata Ranch between Peachland and Summerland and the just released Noble Ridge The One Sparkling 2015, $47.90 out of Okanagan Falls.
Before you reach for Champagne there is another category of French sparklers worth looking for labelled Crémant. The term is used across Europe to signal the wine is harvested by hand, aged for one year in bottle and that it’s made using the methods in place in Champagne, commonly referred to as méthode champenoise. A trio of instructive examples you could pour alongside each other to explore possible points of difference, via origin or even culture, include: Louis Bouillot Perle d’Aurore Rosé Crémant de Bourgogne N/V $23.49 (Burgundy); Aguila Crémant De Limoux Brut (Limoux); and Jaillance Crémant de Bordeaux Brut Rosé Cuvée de l’Abbaye $23.99 (Bordeaux).
Fans of Spanish sparkling wine or cava can choose between the sophisticated likes of the Agusti Torello Mata Reserva 2013 $29.99 or for pure fun and value reach for the stylish Varias La Bona Vida N/V, $19.99. Need we mention Spanish tapas or small bites were developed for cava.
German Sekt doesn’t roll off the tongue, but sparkling Riesling has a certain cachet and a reliable label to look for is Dr. Loosen Sparkling Riesling N/V Riesling, $17.99. The freshness and acidity tame the sugar making this an excellent wine for spicy appetizers or to drink solo. From Italy the organic Anna Spinato Prosecco Organic N/V, $15.99 is a wonderful introduction to the now ensconced Prosecco category with its pear, honey, nutty and candied grapefruit flavours that will add sparkle to any holiday gathering.
Finally, one of the best sparkling buys in the market is from Tasmania, the Jansz Premium Cuvée, $27.99. Looking more like Champagne, at a third of the price, Jansz is a showstopper and just the thing for those swish appetizers you have planned to wow your guests.
Now let the shopping begin and remember the earlier you finish the sooner you can sit down and pour yourself a glass of sparkling wine.