More than just the slopes to consider
Those distant Viking links in my Scottish ancestry are showing: I may not have a hammer in my hand, (it’s an axe) but right now I am the female Thor.
I lift the axe over and behind my head, stepping forward, I hurl it at the target. I’m rewarded with a satisfying thwack.
In reality I’m a totally non-sporty menopausal woman who has plenty of pent-up aggression just looking for an opportunity to be released. And I played a lot of darts in my student days.
This last point serves me well when it comes to throwing an axe it turns out. After a few wobbly attempts under the guidance of my instructor, Rich, I am throwing clean and straight. Soon, the blade is hitting the central axis on each throw, and yes, I do eventually score a bullseye or three.
I think Rich is genuinely impressed. More importantly, I’m having fun — something I did not expect when I walked into Forged Axe in Function Junction, a short drive from Whistler Village.
I’ve spent my fair share of wet Whistler weekends wondering what on Earth to do while the downhill racers of my family get their powder on.
I’m not a shopper at the best of times, even when the stores are full of tourist tat, sports gear, or eye-wateringly expensive designer garb. And so it is that on a hunt for more diversion than the admittedly perfectly acceptable “hole up in a hotel room with a good book” option, I find myself getting my Boudicca fully on with two plaidshirted men.
I’m on vacation and ready to day-drink, so I sign myself up for the new craft beer tour in the village. Though I’d imagined a rowdy bunch of bearded boys or tiara-bedecked stagette crowd filling the ranks, our guide, Brittney, says that the tour (new this season) is drawing couples and is proving most popular with women flying solo. And why not?
The pub crawl includes visiting four Whistler establishments learning — and tasting — between 16 to 20 B.C. craft ales.
By the time we’re munching the very necessary appys provided at stop three, our small group is merrily becoming fast friends and I’m downing the delicious Marzen Amber lager from Bomber Brewing en route to doing the same with a coffee-infused stout from Fuggles & Warlock.
I top off a great day with a great drink at the Mallard Lounge in the Chateau Fairmont Whistler. From the new seasonal menu, I plump for a 1977, with activated charcoal and a rather concerning Dubonnet foam. My doubts are unfounded: this smart twist on a New York sour (a whisky sour with a red wine float) is built from Booker’s Bourbon, the Dubonnet whipped into a sensual, pink soft-serve swirl.
By the time I stand before Gloria Tamerr Petyarr’s Leaves, I find myself engulfed with emotion at its undulating power.
Morning comes and the mountains glisten in sunlight — my cue to grab a sightseeing ticket and head for the gondola.
I may not ski, but I do love being up where the air is fresh and clear and I want to check out the new Umbrella Bar. Hidden behind the Roundhouse Lodge (walk through the food court and out the other side), the heated indoor bar is surrounded by clear plastic walls and a patio. I order a piping hot aromatic mulled wine as magical big fat snowflakes begin to fall.
It’s time for some culture: I never miss an opportunity to spend time at the Audain Art Gallery.
The permanent collection of B.C. art rewards repeated viewings but this visit I’m headed to the temporary exhibition, Ancestral Modern: Australian Aboriginal Art from the Kaplan & Levi Collection (until Jan 28). It’s a marvel.
The relationship of these artists to their lands, their history, and the flora and fauna they live among, thrums from every brush stroke.
By the time I stand before Gloria Tamerr Petyarr’s Leaves, I find myself engulfed with emotion at its undulating power.
Stepping outside again, the mountains seem more wondrous than ever.
NEW THIS SEASON
New eats
The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre (slcc.ca) is offering a First Nations Winter Feast and Performance that includes a Northwest Coast-inspired menu, Indigenous World Winery wines and B.C. craft beers, with live performances throughout the meal.
The Corner Deli (thecornerdeli.ca) offers eight choices of sandwiches (plus a daily special) and a few sides, the menu still covers everything from a traditional Montreal smoked meat on rye, to a seriously delicious vegan banh mi.
New sleeping quarters
The hip Pangea Pod Hotel (pangeapodhotel.com) provides much-needed, high-quality budget accommodation for visitors used to hostels, and they serve good pizzas in their restaurant and bar.
At the other end of the scale, the Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s (fairmont.com/whistler) newly renovated Alpine Suites are sleek, luxurious and perfect for sitting out a rainy day.
Snowshoe through the forest
The Après Teepee Tour from Whistler Snowshoe (whistlersnowshoe.com) guides guests through the Callaghan Valley forest before rewarding them with mulled beverages and a charcuterie board enjoyed next to a raging fire.
Less adventurous winter warmers can be had at the Four Seasons Resort (fourseasons.com/whistler) by cosying up around the vintage Patio Camper for make-yourown s’mores, and a Tipsy Snowman Hot Chocolate (also available in a child-friendly version).
And if money is no object, The Blue Room (headlinemountainholidays.com) will fly you and your date off for a five-course meal served deep inside an ancient ice cave for the princely sum of $20,000.