HOTEL PALAIS CARDINAL, FRANCE

After several hours of driving, extreme thirst and dire heat drove us off the highway before our planned destination of Bordeaux and up to a hilltop village.

The parking spot right in front of the hotel, the promise of a pool and a bar with gin on tap overrode our discomfiture of a windowless, elevator sized room in the attic with a safe box that hummed. We had made the right decision, the pool was in the ramparts of the 500-year-old hotel. Keyholes gave views of the most beautiful village of the area, St Emillion. Thrilled to be chilled by the pool in late afternoon, we climbed multiple levels of the ancient castle to our room.

No one had thought to upgrade us so we fled the buzzing, airless, broom closet and headed out for a walk.

Strolling the west side of the village we were awed by the sun setting over the vineyards, throwing last light on the village walls and church spiral. Without even seeking them out we found everyone at the piazza enjoying dinner. Several restaurants took orders, served, accepted payment but thanks to the crush there was no telling which establishment we were dining in.

The next morning, after the kind of sleep you get in a hotbox we bailed out of bed in search of fresh air and coffee. Nothing was up but a beautiful sunrise.

Stumbling upon an exquisite hilltop village in the middle of vineyards and having our best experience in the Dordogne Valley, sunset and sunrise, driven by the worst hotel room in the country left it a favourite in our memory.