OH, NEVIS, HOW DO I LOVE THEE?
Sparkling Caribbean island a tiny jewel box easily explored by bicycle or ATV
What is it about islands?
Is it the feeling of seclusion thanks to separation from the mainland or the serenity that comes from being able to see water from many vantage points? Whatever it is, islands tend to have a special vibe, especially if said island is in the Caribbean, only reachable by boat and just 93 square kilometres in size with one main road following the coastline.
Nevis, you’re a star among islands.
How was I charmed by Nevis? Let me count the ways.
Starting with a fun, 10-minute scoot over the channel by water taxi from big-sister island St. Kitts, I was soon smitten with its beautiful beaches, sparkling Caribbean Sea and West Indies breezes.
I was also enchanted by views of roaming goats and donkeys — while keeping my eyes peeled for the island’s mischievous monkeys.
And always in view was verdant Mount Nevis, making me pick up my camera many times a day to capture the beauty of it all.
Given its jewel-box size, the island is easily explored by bicycle, ATV or, if you’re feeling really energetic, on foot, as Nevis Peak is scalable with a knowledgeable guide.
The colonial history of Nevis, the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton — yes, that Alexander Hamilton — is found at every turn, from the architecture to the remnants of sugar plantations scattered around Nevis.
For an interesting insight into the island’s history, there are several good museums and historic sites to learn more, including the Museum of Nevis History in island capital Charlestown; St. Thomas Lowland Church, the first Anglican Church in the Caribbean and the oldest church on Nevis, perched atop a hill overlooking the Caribbean Sea; and, poignantly, the remains of Cottle Church, where former Nevis president and landowner John Cottle built a tiny, unsanctioned church in 1824 as a place for his family and those he enslaved to worship together.
You can further immerse yourself into the history of Nevis by checking into Montpelier Plantation & Beach, set on a 300-year-old estate that was the site of the 1787 marriage between naval captain Horatio Nelson and Fanny Nisbet.
The 19-suite Relais & Chateaux resort now serves up ultimate pampering and relaxation.
Perched some 229 metres above the Caribbean Sea and in the shadow of the ever-visible Mount Nevis, the Montpelier has long been a favourite of those looking for a real getaway, including Princess Diana, who decamped there with her sons after her separation.
Given its inland location, the resort is nestled in a peaceful jungle setting with a sparkling pool, airy bungalow-style suites and several elegant and casual lounging spaces decorated with the artwork of part-time resident Kirk Merchar, who also lives and works in Lunenburg, N.S.
Expect to be greeted daily by resident pooch (and mooch), Cosmo, a yellow lab who comes to work with owner Muffin Hoffman.
A family-run operation since 1993, the Montpelier offers that great combination of relaxed informality with on-point food and service.
From the Caddy’s Rum Punch, a delicious but secret concoction, to poolside tea in the afternoon, to magnificent sunsets enjoyed while dining in Restaurant 750 (so named for the 750-foot elevation), you would be hard-pressed to not find something to your liking.
For a truly grand experience, dine at Montpelier’s Mill Privee, set in the old sugar mill still on the property.
The five-course meal menu served by candlelight to a few lucky guests is truly memorable.
Although the Montpelier is not right on the coast, management ensures you have a wonderful seaside experience as shuttles take guests on the short trip to their secluded beach club that includes cabanas, washrooms, loungers and even a packed lunch if so desired.
As well, the beautiful two-hectare Botanical Gardens of Nevis are right next door and part of the original Montpelier estate.
Be prepared to be charmed by this delightful island. Good things do indeed come in small packages.