Vancouver Sun

No better season to fall for Europe

Discover the delights of travel in autumn when great cities ‘return to the residents’

- NATALIE B. COMPTON

There are people in this world who hate fall. They wallow over the end of summer, seeing the season as a time of mourning. But those glasshalf-empty people are all wrong.

Fall is a season for rejoicing, because while the weather cools off in the Northern Hemisphere and birds begin their long slog south, travel to Europe is at its best. Gone are the hordes of tourists in sweatsoake­d tank tops. You’re looking at sweater weather. Better yet, you’re looking at European scarf weather.

The perks go beyond climate considerat­ions, too. If you take a peek at airplane fares year-round, prices definitely dip in the fall. The only time you’ll find lower prices is in the dead of winter.

Once you’re ready to start packing your layers, you’ll need to plan out your autumnal trip across the pond. We checked in with expert local guides in Europe’s most popular fall destinatio­ns to find out what makes their cities great this time of year.

PARIS

In the summer, Paris is a minefield of tourists. Walking along the Seine is still beautiful, but it’s harder to enjoy when you’re dodging a family of four on rental bikes barrelling down the sidewalk. Come fall, most of those families are back at home settling into the new school year, leaving the banks of the famous river to you and the perfectly dressed Parisians.

“Sounds a bit cliché, but Paris is the perfect city to enjoy fall because you can sit at any coffee place and feel immediatel­y ... like you (are) a famous novel writer,” journalist Jennifer Padjemi says in an email. “Even if you want to stay outside, waiters give you some blankets to keep warm.”

Padjemi has many recommenda­tions for fall in the City of Lights. Strolling the Seine and the various canals and parks is a must-do. If you’d like to get outside of the city for some leaf-peeping, an hour’s drive away you’ll find the forest of Fontainebl­eau.

Tracking down seasonal produce, such as pumpkin and squash, is on Padjemi’s list as well. She recommends Marche d’aligre, one of the most famous local markets.

BERLIN

Berlin is an incredible walking city, even more so in the fall. The vines creeping up the city’s historical buildings highlight the colourful street art. Cooler temperatur­es also complement binge-eating currywurst and schnitzel.

“Whereas summer may be the best time to experience Berlin’s wide range of outdoor activities, fall is when Berliners turn to the other aspects that make this city so livable,” writes Rick Noack in an email. “Tourists and locals alike head to art exhibition­s or reflect on the turbulent historic days of German reunificat­ion and the fall of the Berlin Wall — both dates fall into October and November, respective­ly.”

Noack also says there’s no shortage of bars, restaurant­s and cafés that are ideal for a fall escape.

ROME

Summer tourism in Rome has become so extreme that the city’s government has had to step in with new fines and regulation­s to protect its treasured monuments. Avoid contributi­ng to overtouris­m by skipping a trip during the summer and visiting Rome a few months later.

“By the beginning of October, the city returns to the residents in full force,” writer Erica Firpo told us. “Everything is back in business, including the buses and politics. Even if it feels a bit chaotic, it’s the kind of chaos we know and love because the city is alive following the summer snooze.”

Firpo notes Rome’s perfect fall weather as another draw — bright and sunny in the daytime, a bit chilly at night — along with a new lineup of exhibition­s and events during the cooler season.

DUBLIN

Leaf-lovers, fall in Dublin is for you. Pack a raincoat to don over your new Irish wool sweater and find a pub to nestle into for a warming whiskey.

“Dublin is beautiful in fall — or autumn, as we call it,” says Yvonne Gordon. “The trees all along the canals and rivers, and in parks like the Phoenix Park and St. Stephen’s

Green, turn yellow and gold, and the ground is carpeted with soft leaves. The autumn light is spectacula­r, especially early in the morning and in the evening. There’s also a slight chill in the air, so knitted woollies come out, and the first crackling fires are lit.”

The joys of Europe in fall aren’t exclusive to these four cities. The continent has a wealth of options for the fall traveller to explore for fraction of the prices you would pay during the summer.

To find inspiratio­n for where to go, try plugging fall dates into Skyscanner.com’s flight-searching function, and type “Everywhere” into the “to” form. See what the most affordable destinatio­ns are from your closest airport, and plan your European jaunt accordingl­y.

 ?? GETTY IMAGES ?? Taking in the iconic Eiffel Tower is a must if you’re in Paris in the fall, where you can also enjoy the crisp autumn air at an outdoor cafe.
GETTY IMAGES Taking in the iconic Eiffel Tower is a must if you’re in Paris in the fall, where you can also enjoy the crisp autumn air at an outdoor cafe.
 ??  ?? Dublin in autumn is a delight as the trees in the city’s many parks, and along the rivers and canals, dazzle with their display of vibrant fall colours.
Dublin in autumn is a delight as the trees in the city’s many parks, and along the rivers and canals, dazzle with their display of vibrant fall colours.
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