SUN, SURF AND SERENITY
Consider La Paz as alternative to Los Cabos for a less-touristy taste of Baja California Sur
Los Cabos’ setting is spectacular, on the southern tip of Baja California, Mexico, where desert meets ocean. Its tourism numbers are also jaw-dropping, with more than two million visitors a year. This region of the state known as Baja California Sur includes two towns, San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, and the 32 kilometres of coastline between them.
Los Cabos boasts photogenic beaches as well as a seemingly endless stretch of golf courses and resorts, cruise ships, and, especially in Cabo San Lucas’s case, tourist bars. Quieter San José del Cabo features colonial architecture and art galleries, but like Cabo San Lucas, it faces overdevelopment.
Visitors can get some distance from Cabo San Lucas’s perpetual spring break by escaping onto the water. Rent a boat or kayak from the city’s yacht-filled downtown marina to reach El Arco, the famous golden limestone arch that straddles the Gulf of California (a.k.a. the Sea of Cortez) and the Pacific Ocean.
Even better, visit the landmark underwater, where you can scuba dive alongside rays and sea lions. Or venture farther into the Pacific to dive with hammerhead sharks, marlin, mahi-mahi and more wildlife far from the party animals on shore.
On the other hand, to experience the peninsula’s stark beauty and sea life minus the ever-present throng of tourists, base yourself in La Paz, on the eastern side of Baja California Sur.
The state capital features Mexico’s largest promenade, a vibrant waterfront stretch adorned with sculptures from Mexican artists. The path is a good jumping-off point for land-based and aquatic adventures; pedal a bike along its 5.5-kilometre expanse or standup paddleboard in the bay. About 27 kilometres north of the city, Tecolote Beach is also reachable by bike, and its neighbour, Balandra Beach, is ideal for kayaking.
Around La Paz, the Gulf of California’s protected waters host an abundance of migrating whales. In the winter, watch for 30-ton grey whales or humpbacks that breach breathtakingly close to shore.
La Ventana, 48 kilometres southeast of the city, is one of the world’s best kiteboarding and windsurfing spots because of its steady winter winds, protected bay and beautiful beaches. Small resorts offer equipment and lessons.
Don’t want to go where the wind takes you? Steer your own course and kayak, paddleboard, dive, hike or mountain bike.
Take a panga boat 90 minutes north from La Paz to visit Isla Espíritu Santo, one of 244 UNESCO -listed islands, islets and coastal areas in the Gulf of California. Although day trips are available, consider camping at an off-grid retreat such as Baja Expeditions’ site at Candelero Bay. Excursions include trekking through mangroves and cacti to dramatic redrock vistas — watch for ring-tailed cats and black-tailed jack rabbits along the way — and kayaking in cliff-flanked bays. Snorkel or dive with rambunctious sea lions and a variety of other critters, including sea turtles and octopuses. At sunset, watch rays leap through the surf, and later, stargaze from your waterside tent — a different kind of intoxication than Cabo’s nightlife.
La Paz is about 160 kilometres north of Cabo San Lucas, a twohour drive.