Vancouver Sun

Here’s my beef with studies about meat

The problem of what to eat and what not to eat is far too complex to have a simple solution, Joe Schwarcz says.

- joe.schwarcz@mcgill.ca Joe Schwarcz is director of Mcgill University’s Office for Science & Society (mcgill.ca/ oss). His column The Right Chemistry appears Saturdays in the Montreal Gazette, where this column was first published.

The meat controvers­y is broiling over. Let’s stew on it.

That’s a good start because stewing produces fewer potentiall­y carcinogen­ic compounds than broiling. And keep in mind that eating a six-ounce steak is not the same as eating a 12-ounce steak. Eating meat seven times a week is not the same as eating it four times. Eating that steak with french fries is not the same as eating it with a salad.

Replacing meat with vegetables is not the same as replacing it with pasta. Grassfed beef is not the same as grain-fed. Meat consumptio­n by a young athlete is not the same as by an older person with cardiovasc­ular disease or diabetes. And you have to eat a lot of beans to get the same amount of protein as is found in a small serving of meat.

Over the years there have been numerous studies that have tried to evaluate the risk-benefit ratio of eating meat. Most of these have been observatio­nal studies based on questionna­ires. However, people’s memory can be faulty, they may have trouble quantifyin­g amounts, and may report what they think they should have eaten instead of what they actually ate.

Although each study can be nitpicked, when all the studies are put together, the evidence points toward more moderate meat consumptio­n being beneficial to health.

Or at least that has been the conclusion until the recent papers that appeared in the Annals of Internal Medicine alleging that the evidence for cutting back on meat and processed meat is so weak that people might just as well enjoy themselves without modifying consumptio­n. As one would expect, this recommenda­tion opened up a can of worms.

Weak evidence is not the same as no evidence. For example, the authors conclude that eliminatin­g three meat meals a week can result in health benefits roughly for one person out of 200.

Indeed, this doesn’t seem like a huge benefit, but if, let’s say, 100 million people in North America would adopt this regimen, then a few hundred thousand would benefit. And that is hardly trivial.

Add to this the definite benefit for the environmen­t, and the recommenda­tion of the authors that there is no need to change meat consumptio­n habits hardly seems appropriat­e, especially for people who eat meat at virtually every meal.

As Aristotle famously said, there are often extreme views on issues, but it is best to search for an answer in-between the extremes. That is often difficult to do because researcher­s are often wedded to the views upon which they have forged careers and are adept at referring selectivel­y to the literature to back up their arguments.

Often there may be alliances with vested interests that are not readily apparent.

The problem of what to eat and what not to eat is far too complex to have a simple solution.

But instead of cherry-picking data, when we pick all the cherries and mash them together, we come up with the conclusion that a mostly, but not necessaril­y exclusivel­y, plant-based diet is better for our health as well as for the health of the planet.

Canada’s Food Guide has got it right with the suggestion that half the plate should be filled with vegetables and fruits, a quarter with whole grains and a quarter with protein foods that can be composed of meat, fish, poultry, dairy or plant sources such as beans, lentils or nuts.

I like my eggplant and green pepper sandwiches, my oatmeal with berries and my vegetarian goulash.

But I also enjoy the occasional burger, and even a hotdog, as long as there is a good hockey or baseball game in front of it.

Over the years there have been numerous studies that have tried to evaluate the risk-benefit ratio of eating meat ... when all the studies are put together, the evidence points to more moderate meat consumptio­n being beneficial for health.

Joe Schwarz

Weak evidence is not the same as no evidence.

 ?? REUTERS FILES ?? Studies about meat consumptio­n may not include enough variables to be definitive for everyone, Joe Schwarz says.
REUTERS FILES Studies about meat consumptio­n may not include enough variables to be definitive for everyone, Joe Schwarz says.

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