AUTHENTIC & LAID BACK
There’s so much more to Sonoma than wine. But don’t worry, there’s plenty of that, too
Known the world over for wine, Sonoma should also be heralded for its remarkable resilience. Just as pioneers carved lives out of native lands in the early 1800s and battled the Mexican army for independence, succeeding generations of idealist entrepreneurs built up industries of dairy, logging, ranching and grape growing. That resilience has also carried the region through numerous wildfires dating back to 1870. A large fire at Santa Rosa in September 1964 was matched by the devastating Tubbs fire of October 2017, which killed 22 people and consumed more than 4,600 homes. This fall, the iconic wine country north of San Francisco was again battling blazes. After weeks of fighting the Kincade fire, it was finally contained in early November. Remarkably no lives were lost although more than 400 structures were damaged or destroyed.
Much of the fire damage is in sparsely populated wilderness areas northeast of Geyserville, and the tourism board reports that the 2019 grape harvest was 92 per cent complete. Two wineries sustained damage, but all others are working to get back on track. And that includes encouraging tourists to return and post photos with the hashtag #Gatherinsonoma.
“This is a great time to visit,” said Claudio Vecchio, president and CEO of Sonoma County Tourism. “The weather is good, there is a full slate of events, and the hospitality is unmatched. Visiting now helps support local businesses and families.”
Tourists heading into the hills may see some signs of fire damage but they’ll also see a community intent on rebuilding itself as a premier tourist destination. That passion and determination to get on with life lies at the heart of what makes Sonoma great.
Another California adventurer, Peter Lang, also had big dreams. The son of famed film director Otto Lang, Peter bought rural land north of Santa Rosa in the late 1980s. Inspired by his father’s work on shows like Sea Hunt and Flipper, he began a conservation breeding facility. With wife Nancy, they opened Safari West to the public in 1993 and, over the years, added more animals, school tours and African-style glamping tents to accommodate overnight guests.
Customized military vehicles tour the grounds, giving guests an up-close-and-personal look at 1,000 animals: birds, carnivores, hoofed mammals, primates, reptiles and rodents. An aviary holds smaller birds while flamingos, cranes and guinea fowl wander loose. Buffalo, wildebeest and zebras free graze while rhinos have a space of their own.
The carnivores — cheetah, serval, caracal, hyena and fox — and primates are housed near the dining centre and it’s remarkable to hear their calls during an open-air dinner. It is a bit unnerving to walk to your tent at night with nothing but a flashlight knowing what’s on the other side of the fence.
Nights are eerily quiet but as the sun breaks over the trees, the animals come alive. You’ll hear a chorus of hoots, grunts and cackles through the thin walls of the tent. This is a fantastic family-friendly excursion.
The Safari West complex and its animals were almost lost in the 2017 wildfire. Staff was forced to evacuate but Lang stayed behind, protecting the preserve with a few garden hoses.
Remarkably, no animals died but the Langs’ home was destroyed. The American Red Cross honoured Lang with its 2018 Animal Rescue Hero award.
CLAIMS TO FAME
Often deemed a little sister to sophisticated, tourist-savvy Napa, Sonoma County is authentic and laid back. Napa’s focus is all wine, all the time while the almost twice as large Sonoma region has a diverse agricultural industry. A mere 70 km north of San Francisco, Sonoma County stretches from Petaluma in the south to Cloverdale in the north, west to the Pacific Coast and east to the town of Sonoma. In between are farms and ranches, and dozens of quirky villages and small towns, each with its own claim to fame. Petaluma is the eggs and butter capital, Valley Ford farms are known for cheese and Bodega Bay is the spot to whale watch. Immerse yourself in several towns to get a feel for the region.
History is also alive in the town of Sonoma, which was governed by Mexico in the mid-1800s. Get a map from the visitors’ centre which details the plaza’s worldly assortment of vegetation. Across the street is the state’s northernmost Franciscan mission and an old military barracks where you learn Sonoma was the birthplace of the California State Bear Flag, carried by Americans rebelling against Mexican rule.
While many towns are on northsouth Highway 101, detour off to the wild west coast.
Head through Guerneville and stop at Armstrong Redwood State Reserve for a stroll among the giants. Here you’ll find the Colonel Armstrong tree, at least 1,400 years old. Head further down the trail and look up, way up.
The forest’s tallest tree, Parson Jones, is 94.5 metres high. The park is a peaceful spot to recharge over a picnic lunch or grab something from the taco truck in quaint Guerneville.
Further west, Jenner is your introduction to the Pacific Coast. At the mouth of the Russian River, it attracts paddle boarders and kayakers who play peekaboo with seals in the tidal bay.
From here, head south to Bodega Bay or north to the even more rugged Fort Ross and Timber Cove. You’ll feel like you’re at the edge of the earth; wind and sea spray lashing your face as waves break on the rocks.
As in much of California, the coastline drive is spectacular but be prepared for twisty roads that narrow to nerve-racking widths at the most inopportune times. Take it slow and stop frequently to take in the views.
While there is so much more to Sonoma than wine, do indulge during a trip.
Sonoma County is bursting with vineyards and tasting rooms. There are 18 growing regions (AVAS) in the county — Sonoma, Dry Creek and Alexander Valley are among the best known — which produce 50 varieties of grapes as a result of its wide-ranging climate and soil.
In fact, Sonoma greatly outproduces Napa in growing wine grapes. With a focus on environmentalism, the region is on the cusp of becoming the first fully certified sustainable wine region in the U.S. It was deemed the 2019 Wine Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast.
With close to 500 wineries in the county, you will find something to fit your taste. Whether by car, horseback, bicycle or tram, visit large operations such as Ferrari-carano and Kendall-jackson. Or seek out celebrity wineries like Francis Ford Coppola’s, which has two public swimming pools, a games park and a museum packed with movie memorabilia such as his Oscar trophies.
Korbel Champagne Cellars warrants a visit as the oldest continually operating champagne house in North America.