B.C. WINE COOKBOOK MORE THAN JUST RECIPES
Fascinating stories about winemakers introduce families shaping the industry
Winery cookbooks can often be stodgy at best, but The B.C. Wine Lover's Cookbook: Recipes & Stories from Wineries Across British Columbia, authored by Jennifer Schell, hits it out of the park on many levels. In much the same way as we are experiencing the next Okanagan in wine, this book could be considered the next Okanagan cookbook.
Cookbooks are hardly my specialty, but I have spent a lifetime in wine and food, so I know a little bit about the subject and especially the much-maligned art of pairing food and wine, but Schell's book focused on B.C. wine country gets a lot right.
The hook for me is the stories behind the recipes. Many stem from family connections or employees that are weaving their way into our modern Okanagan wine lore. We don't talk enough about the subtle influence foreigners are having on B.C. wine, and similar to what goes inside the winery, the diverse ethnic background of so many participants is playing a role in what is going on in wine country cuisine. It's not all foreigners. The mosaic of lives and experiences include several multi-generational Canadian families, too.
On Vancouver Island, Paul and Cristina Brunner celebrate the meeting of two cultures at Blue Grouse Vineyard in the idyllic Cowichan Valley. Paul is a West Coast man while his wife Cristina hails from a family of 10 in Lima, Peru. Their Blue Grouse Sparkling Paula ($34.99) is a wine you will be hearing more and more about in the coming years as the Island winery pursues the sparkling wine route with a new vineyard planted specifically to make sparkling wine grapes. `Paula' is the family choice to pair with Paul Brunner's Cured Salmon. Brunner spent many a year in Peru in the mining business, where he refined his ceviche and tiradito techniques marinating raw seafood in lemon and lime juice.
A favourite story, and one of the first recipes in the book, is Federico's Shrimp Ceviche. Federico Gonzalez returns to Intrigue Wines every year with a team of Mexicans to work the harvest. Picking grapes may be the most romantic notion in winemaking. Yet, nothing could be further from the truth should you ever find yourself bent over a row of vines picking bunches of grapes for several hours, day after day after day.
To watch Federico and his crew or any other transient worker pick a vineyard clean in the early morning hours is mesmerizing. The pace at which they work and the artistry is part of the unsung story of wine. At the end of the harvest, Federico and the crew create a Mexican feast for the entire winery team, including Federico's favourite ceviche — his recipe is paired with Intrigue Riesling ($17).
Another favourite tale is Florence's Tarragon Chicken featuring Checkmate Artisanal Winery and winemaker Phil Mcgahan. Mcgahan, the youngest of 10 kids who grew up on a Queensland farm in Australia, where the family kept a quarter-acre vegetable garden and chickens. His mother, Florence, made a roast chicken dish with tarragon grown in the family garden. Described as “the perfect post-harvest celebration dinner,” by Mcgahan, it is paired with Checkmate Little Pawn Chardonnay ($110).
Dessert freaks will enjoy the Dutch Hangop Creamy Yogurt Dessert Dutch by immigrants Heleen Pannekoek and Ralph de Bruin of Lillooet's Fort Berens Estate Winery. The secret is Belle deboskop apples, but you can substitute Gala apples if you can't find them near you. The match is the delicious Fort Beren's Late Harvest Riesling ($20).
Kathleen and Shane Mumm of Martin's Lane share a terrific Bibimbap recipe Kathleen learned to cook while she was living in Korea — the match is Martin's Lane Fritzi's Vineyard Riesling ($65).
Over at Summerhill, Ria and Stephen Cipes have offered up a Summerhill Okonomiyaki with Smoked Salmon. Ria hailed from Japan and worked with Summerhill chef Jeremy Luypen to make the heart-healthy version paired with Cipes Brut N/V ($28).
There are more than just recipes in the book, including some novel tour ideas based on grapes. The B.C. Wine Lover's Cookbook is widely available wherever cookbooks are sold.