WEEKEND WINE PICKS
Beauty in Chaos Chardonnay 2018, Washington $12.99 I 85/100
UPC: 088586010477 Anytime you can get a cooler vintage in Washington State, it is a good thing. In 2018 a hot spring and early summer morphed into a cool finish, and wines like this Chardonnay are the benefactors. The attack is ripe and fresh with bright acidity and intense pear/apple fruit with a whiff of vanilla. Most of the action is up front as the wine fades towards the back of the palate — round, oaky, but not too oaky, tasty and cheap. I'm sure there is a broad market for this style.
Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay 2017, Margaret River, Australia
$28.99 I 89/100
UPC: 9315032001385 Vasse Felix Chardonnay has always been a cult wine among Australians. Filius translates to `son of' in Latin, reflecting the relationship between this second label and its premier father. The nose opens with tropical pineapple and grapefruit mixed with crunchy nectarine. The use of French oak (15 per cent new) and lees management adds further complexity in the form of spice, almonds, and lemon curd. The attack is fresh with more intense citrus, green apple and sagebrush/herbaceous notes, with underlying stony, mineral, lean notes. Reliable and best with creamy and buttery dishes.
Alliance Loire Lieu Dit Les Epinats Saumer 2018, Saumur, Loire, France $20.99 I 87/100
UPC: 185961000884 Alliance Loire Cooperative sources fruit from across the Saumer AOC in the Loire Valley to assemble this simple but affordable Cabernet Franc. The nose is aromatic and full of leafy, plummy fruit that spills onto the palate, mixing juicy blueberry and plum with some light, chewy tannins that lend a rustic finish to the Euro-styled franc. I served this with grilled sausages, and it worked out perfectly for the price. You could cellar it for another year or two, but go with the sausages or a similarly robust menu item, and it should be fine.
Upper Bench Merlot Cabernet Franc 2018, Okanagan Valley
$20 I 87/100
UPC: 626990244936
Not entirely up to 2016 in the voluptuous Napa style, 2018 is a juicier, more northern version with some tannins to shed. The nose and palate are awash in deep black cherry with spicy, savoury flecks throughout. The finish is medium-long with a few sticky tannins. Best now with burgers or steak, or let this sleep another 12-18 months in the bottle — winery direct/online, select private wine shops and grocery.
Giovanni Rosso Nebbiolo Langhe Rosso 2016, Piedmont, Italy
$27.99 I 92/100
UPC: 8028998102447
I'm not sure there is a better wine under $30 in the B.C. market. It's better than last year, and last year it was terrific. The nose is captivating with its fragrant rose petal and licorice notes. The colour and weight are Pinot Noir-like, and the palate is deliciously juicy and forthcoming from front to back. You can drink this now or cellar three to five years and beyond because it is perfectly balanced. Brava to Giovani Rosso and its commitment to making serious Nebbiolo at all levels. Back up the truck. Consider this a top match for a Thanksgiving turkey dish.