POMME DAUPHINE

This elegant showstopper is a classic recipe updated by Jean-claude Douguet, executive chef of Gotham Steakhouse. For the most accurate measurements, invest in an electronic scale and use the metric weights below; you will also need a frying thermometer for the oil.

■ 1.1 lb (500 g) potatoes

■ 1/4 cup (50 g) butter

■ 3 egg yolks

■ 1 egg white

■ Salt to taste Vegetable oil for frying Pâte à Choux

■ 1/2 cup (125 g) milk

■ 1/4 cup (60 g) butter Pinch of nutmeg

■ 1/2 cup (70 g) flour

■ 2 whole eggs

■ Salt to taste

1. Peel and cut potatoes into large cubes. Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil, add the potatoes and cook until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

2. While potatoes are boiling, start bringing a small but deep pot of oil up to 350°F, and make the pâte à choux. In a small pot, simmer milk with butter and nutmeg over medium-low heat. When butter is melted, add flour and stir with a wooden spoon. Reduce heat and continue stirring until it reaches a doughlike consistency. Remove from heat and incorporate eggs one at a time.

3. When potatoes are cooked, remove them from the heat, drain well, and immediately pass them through a food mill. While they are still warm, fold in the butter, then the egg yolks one at a time and finally the egg white. Season with salt.

4. Mix dough mixture and potato mixture together. Check seasoning.

5. When the oil has reached 350°F, start dropping the batter into it, a rounded tablespoon at a time. Using a slotted spoon, move the potato puffs around while they are cooking. It should take about 5 minutes for them to become crisp and golden brown. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels, then season with salt to taste.

Serves four to six.