Surfing, saunas and stellar views beckon in Tofino
Nature is the star attraction, but food and relaxation are close behind
Thirty minutes into our boat ride past dense green forests of cedars lining rocky shorelines through the calm waters of Tofino Inlet, captain Martin Klumper cut the engines to a slow coast.
As we rounded into a bay deep in the UNESCO Biosphere Preserve our destination came into view, a floating sauna, wood-fired cedar, with a collection of SUP boards and an outdoor firepit.
After quickly preparing a fire with clean-burning maple wood in the sauna's cedar stove, Klumper instructed us in emergency walkie-talkie protocols and motored off.
Launched in February by Tofino Resort + Marina, with support and partnership of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation, the West Coast Floating Sauna is remote and private.
We spend the day soaking in the stillness of the inlet and enjoying the sauna, including a few bracing Wim Hof-style plunges.
“We wanted to create an opportunity to bring the feeling of remoteness within reach for our guests,” says Christopher Fehr, general manager of Tofino Resort + Marina.
Nature is always close at hand in Tofino. So too are adventure opportunities on land and at sea, popular activities like whale-watching, hiking, cold-water surfing and storm-watching.
Early the next day, we struggled into form-fitting wetsuits as our Surf Sisters instructor Lindsay laid out the morning's surfing plan. It was a sunny and calm day, but I was nervous about heading back onto a surfboard: my previous attempt in Hawaii was only successful in burning the soles of my feet.
Tofino has 35 km of beaches and an exposed coast, and surfers of all skill levels have access to yearround cold-water surfing in Tofino. I saw a few experienced surfers out in the bay riding and carving waves with grace. That would not to be me.
“Stay close to me and I'll let you know when it's time,” advised Lindsay.
I walked carefully into the rolling surf of Cox Bay, delighted to find that I could stand up quite a way out into the water. After a few tries and fails, a good swell approached. I accepted Lindsay's offer of a push and after several ungainly attempts to get up, I did it, riding a wave for long enough to flash two thumbs up to my husband. And about that cold water? It never bothered me anyway.
After a quick wardrobe change and tasty taco and burrito snack at Tacofino food truck, we joined a guided tour with Liam Ogle of Long Beach Nature Tours.
Ogle has led hikes in Tofino's temperate coastal rainforest for 10 years. His is the only hiking company with permits to hike in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, and that's where we began our walk, along the park's South Beach Trail.
The trail was hemmed in by tall salt-loving Sitka spruce and Western hemlock trees and twisted in and out of the rainforest. We walked up a few raised wooden boardwalks before descending towards the protected South Beach cove. Taking a seat on barnacle-covered rocks, we listened to the surf and kept an eye out for wildlife, including the elusive sea wolf.
“Tofino's sea wolves are a subspecies of the North American grey wolf,” said Ogle. Also known as coastal wolves, these unique mammals are strong swimmers and enjoy a marine diet of seafood, including mussels, clams, and salmon, especially at spawn.
Our day in Tofino's outdoors had us ready to enjoy a fine meal, and Tofino's food scene does not disappoint. Whether it's a Cook Your Catch dinner at 1909 Kitchen (from seafood retrieved from crab or prawn traps on your return from the floating sauna), a casual al fresco meal of savoury surf bowls and burgers at Shelter Restaurant, or fine dining at the Relais & Chateaux Wickaninnish Inn, the choices are varied and delicious.
We opted for the multi-course tasting menu at The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn, which celebrated its 25th anniversary last year. The seasonal spring tasting menu can be made vegan and vegetarian, and we chose to pair our dishes with a selection of local and international wines.
Taking in the spectacular views of Chesterman Beach and the rhythmic movement of the waves, we savoured a dinner of scallop tartare, roasted beets, grilled fish and a divinely deconstructed meringue dessert with local huckleberries.
After a wonderful night's sleep at the Wick, leaving a window slightly ajar to hear the ocean, we departed along the Pacific Rim Highway. I was excited to see that the new Parks Canada multi-use pathway that runs parallel to the coastal road was nearly complete.
Expected to fully open this spring, the winding 25 km trail, named ʔapsčiik t̓ašii (pronounced ups-cheek ta-shee) has been developed in partnership with local First Nations, the Yuułuʔiłʔatḥ and Tla-o-qui-aht.
The pathway will wind its way through Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, connecting its Visitors Centre with the village of Tofino. It will provide all ages and abilities with a safe, sustainable, and accessible way to experience one of British Columbia's most spectacular and singular national park reserves.