SAUVIGNON BLANC DRAWS IN NEW WINE DRINKERS
This week we take a quick look at Sauvignon Blanc, a grape becoming popular among new wine drinkers attracted to its green fruit and herbaceous flavours. It grows in several countries worldwide, and the current style is as varied as the growers who produce the wine.
The name “Sauvignon” comes from the French for sauvage, meaning wild, referring to its propensity to look like a wild grapevine. Also, from the stranger than fiction department, Sauvignon Blanc has been identified as one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, the other being Cabernet Franc.
When you first taste Sauvignon Blanc, the pungent nose and upfront barrage of aromas seem almost overpowering. The passion fruit, the fresh-cut grass, the peas, asparagus and perhaps the most common aroma, grapefruit, but how it all comes together separates the average from the best.
When you research the homes of Sauvignon Blanc, it begins in France's Loire Valley, the home of Sancerre, Pouilly-fume, Reuilly, Menetou-salon, Quincy and Touraine. In Bordeaux, 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc is rare, but a blend with Semillon is more common, and the combination can be highly appealing.
New Zealand owns most of the Sauvignon Blanc market with countless cool-climate Marlborough labels full of citrus and grapefruit. However, much of the best Chilean Sauvignon Blanc grows in Aconcagua, including the Casablanca, San Antonio, and the Leyda valleys. You'll also find some intriguing stuff from the Colchagua Valley to the far north in Elqui Valley.
South Africa has a knack for Sauvignon Blanc, but it gets pretty short shrift in North America, where style and history often trump substance when it comes to wine. In addition, moderate pricing has held these wines back because their profit margin is usually considered too low by restaurants and high-end retailers. Nevertheless, moderately priced, high-quality Sauvignon can readily be found in South Africa and Chile.
California has very few dry Sauvignon Blancs to share with the world. But, unfortunately, the very best are expensive, which brings us to British Columbia, where the rise of Sauvignon Blanc has been somewhat magical over the past decade.
The first notion of local Sauvignon being special began with white Meritage blends featuring Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon in mixed percentages. Having grown up tasting many Bordeaux whites, it was illuminating to see we weren't all that far off from the revered Bordeaux Blanc.
Early on, bright lights included Black Hills Alibi, Howling Bluff Summa Quies, Mission Hill S.L.C. and Sumac Ridge White Meritage.
The latest list would consist of Black Hills Alibi, Clos du Soleil Estate Reserve, Clos du Soleil Capella, Lock and Worth, Mission Hill Terroir Collection Jagged Rock, Mission Hill Reserve Meritage White, Nk'mip Cellars Mer'r'iym White Meritage and Tightrope Winery.
Solo varietal Sauvignon Blanc has upped its game locally with compelling labels tasted from Bartier Bros., Blasted Church, Blue Mountain, Boutinot Project B, Canyon View, Cedarcreek Platinum Border Vista, Chronos Da Silva Fumé Blanc, Emandare, French Door, Haywire Free Form, Le Vieux Pin, Little Engine Silver, Mission Hill Reserve, Stag's Hollow and Township 7 Reserve Blue Terrace Vineyard.
Locals have another compelling reason to explore homegrown Sauvignon Blanc. It's a
fabulous food wine starting with any herb-derived sauce you can serve with chicken, tofu or fish dishes. Steamed clams or mussels are an unparalleled match, as are oysters, and all are relatively plentiful in our backyard. Fresh goat cheese has always been a fine match, but you can add ricotta and feta to that list too. The green theme also works with a dill and cucumber salad, asparagus risotto, or a Greek pasta salad. Finally, don't forget the green peas, arugula, tomatoes, leeks and artichokes.
Finally, Sauvignon Blanc can tolerate various herbs and spices, from mint, dill and cilantro to rosemary, basil, thyme, pesto garlic and green olive tapenade. So with the weather warming up, the only question is, what are you waiting for — chill that Sauvignon Blanc and get the weekend started.