STORIED CITY ON WEST COAST OF IRELAND
Galway boasts a vibrant arts scene, great restaurants and youthful energy
Galway is an ancient city infused with youthful energy. When we strolled through the pedestrians-only Latin Quarter, the medieval streets were teeming with fresh-faced folk who seemed barely old enough to legally drink in the many pubs.
It is a reflection of the demographics. About one-fifth of the 80,000 residents are students, mostly attending the University of Galway. Education is what brought us to this storied city on the west coast of Ireland, our daughter having enrolled in the respected medical school, which draws many students from Canada and the U.S.
My wife and I had the urgent task of orienting ourselves and our daughter in the city where she would be launching her post-secondary studies, while also assuring ourselves that she would be OK, knowing that we would soon be separated by the Atlantic Ocean.
Galway delivered. It has a well-deserved reputation for a vibrant arts scene and excellent restaurants. More to the point for uneasy parents, Galwegians opened their arms to us, uniformly expressing delight when we told them of our daughter's enrolment.
It started with a fine welcome with our stay for the first few days at the Park House Hotel, just off Eyre Square in the centre of the city, a grand old four-star property where I appreciated the bartender's impromptu tutorial on Irish whiskies (Red Breast 12-year-old was his fine recommendation.)
There was an entertaining orientation through the walking tour offered by Tribes Tours of Galway. It began on Eyre Square, which our guide Michael explained was named after a former mayor.
“He gifted it to us, even though it was already ours. But it was still very kind of him,” said Michael, who missed his calling as a standup comedian. He led us through a wry summary of Galway's history, adding an elemental lesson of Irish history: “If things are going well, you can be sure that some kind of disaster is sure to follow.”
It started as a fishing village in medieval times, saw a boom as a port city during the Renaissance, only to be suppressed during the era of Oliver Cromwell. Among the landmarks Michael pointed out was Lynch Castle (now a bank), where it is said that a former mayor dispensed even-handed justice by hanging his dissolute son for murdering a Spanish visitor in the 15th century — a story with many versions, although it is unclear if any are true.
Canadians do not think of the west coast of Ireland as a beach destination, but Galway has a lovely one in the suburb of Salthill, just west of the downtown.
We stayed at the Salthill Hotel, where we observed hardy Irish folk dipping into Galway Bay. My daughter and I gave it a try and found the sand soft to the feet and the water brisk to the skin.
While you can always be assured of a fine pint in just about any pub, Irish cuisine has also come a long way from the beans on toast stereotype. Kai Restaurant, owned by the husband and wife team of David and Jess Murphy, emphasizes local fare in its cosy spot where stone floors and wooden beams evoke the feel of a rustic cottage. On our visit chef Jess prepared a memorable meal of Roscommon lamb chops for me, scallops for my wife and a steak that our daughter loved.
Galway also acts as a great base for exploring the Wild Atlantic Way, Ireland's spectacular west coast. A short ferry ride away are the stunning Aran Islands, three rocky specks in the Atlantic. Pictures never do justice to the stark, evocative landscapes we witnessed on the largest of the islands, Inishmore. There are almost no trees, the rolling hills divided by low walls of limestone and the west coast marked by towering cliffs that mark the far western frontier of Europe.
I asked our guide, Cyril Ó Flaithearta, to sum up the essence of the Aran Islands. “The landscapes and the people. And the landscapes were moulded by the people.”
In times past, Aran Islanders had to make their own farmland. They would haul up loads of clay, sand and seaweed from the shores and layer them onto the rocky base.
“They are resilient people. Always have been,” said Cyril.
An enduring symbol of this place is the Aran sweater. Traditionally, each family would have its own pattern. Cyril brought us to the An Túirne shop on Inishmore where there was a room devoted to the hand-knit varieties, with a picture on display of four generations of Aran knitters.
Coupled with a lunch of Guinness Irish stew, followed by Guinness-infused cake at the Nan Paddy Café next door, we could not possibly have a more Irish experience. Or feel more at home.