SAN MARINO: ANCIENT LAND OF LIBERTY
The Vatican is not the only small country to sit within Italy's borders
Italy is incredibly unique in that there are two small political entities within its borders. Most travellers are aware that Vatican City, surrounded by Rome, is its own country; less known is San Marino, unbelievably not until my third trip to Southern Europe, did I become aware it.
The Republic of San Marino, occupying 62 square kilometres, is a mountainous micro-state on the northeastern side of the Apennine Mountains, within 30 minutes of the coastal Italian town of Rimini.
San Marino derives its name from Marinas, a Christian stonemason born in Croatia in 275 A.D. While working in the region as a young man, his occasional preaching drew fire from the pagan Roman authorities. He was forced to flee and sought refuge on a mountainside. While in hiding, he formed a chapel and eventually built a monastery. He declared it independent in 301 A.D. and to this day it is recognized as the oldest sovereign state in the world. San Marino created a constitution in 1600, which remains the oldest one in effect, and the only one written in Latin that still has the force of law. Additionally, San Marino is the sole surviving medieval commune of the patchwork of independent states unified in the 19th century.
Located on the slopes of Monte Titano sits the capital, also called San Marino, known for its narrow cobblestone streets, medieval walled old town, and stunning views from three defensive fortress towers, looking out over the surrounding countryside onto the Adriatic Sea.
Numerous works of art, monuments, fountains, statutes, and secret gardens embellish the streets and squares. Throughout the historic centre are at least 10 wonderful statutes of the female form; most notably, The Grand Nude, sculpted by Francesco Messina. The most popular public square is Piazza Della Liberta with a number of shops and places to eat. It is also the location for the hourly changing of the guard.
Although there is a small volunteer army, San Marino has been neutral on the world scene for more than five centuries. In 2008, San Marino was recognized by UNESCO for its autonomy and continuity of democracy. Its citizens regard this as a very important aspect of their lives and practise a parliamentary style of government.
Reminiscent of the Roman Empire, the head of state is known as the Captain Regent. Two captain regents serve at the same time for terms of six months and are usually from opposing parties. They act jointly and every decision has to be mutual as each has the power to veto the other. More women have served as heads of state in this country than in any other. Captain regents are provided with a limousine and driver and the distinction of licence plates marked 001 and 002.
On a tour led by a sixth-generation Sammarinese — that's what people who live there are called — we learned some quirky and interesting facts. Citizenship passes through the male line only. A few years ago a law abolishing transmission of citizenship through marriage was passed. There is a regulation banning female domestic workers younger than 50, to prevent foreign women from taking advantage of frail elderly citizens.
The country has never refused asylum to the persecuted and during the Second World War gave shelter to 100,000 evacuees from the surrounding areas of Italy. San Marino has the most cars per capita of any country in the world. Citizens celebrate their independence (Sept. 3) with a countrywide bingo game and crossbow tournament, complete with medieval music and clothing.
There is no airport, train station, or harbour. San Marino participates in the little Olympics every two years, designated for countries with populations less than 1 million. The census in 2021 documents San Marino's population at 33,745. Although not a member of the EU, the Euro is its national currency.
For a gentle, friendly, peace-loving population San Marino has the most offbeat and disturbing museums within a small radius of city blocks. There is a Modern Arms and separate Ancient Arms Museum, Reptilarium Aquarium, vampire museum, wax museum (solely displaying 40 scenes of period war settings), and the Curiosity Museum which “offers an interesting collection of subjects, facts, strange and curious things at the edge of reality, but all rigorously true and documented.”
There is also an internationally famous permanent exhibit, the only one of its kind in the world, housed in the Torture Museum. I was frightened enough by the outdoor display and chose not to enter, but heard that it contains a visual synthesis of the history of torture and its shocking devices, with pieces from the 16th and 17th centuries.
MONTE TITANO
Even though exhausting, walking up Monte Titano is a mustdo. It is a steep climb to the three towers that overlook the city and countryside filled with small villages. Guaita Tower is the oldest and grandest, built during the 11th century, and the final staircase was more like a ladder.
There is a cable car from the capital to the top of the mountain, about 1.5 kilometres, should your time be limited and / or mobility an issue.
Day trips from Bologna are popular but we found that three days was necessary to fully appreciate the serenity and peace of the community. The greatest danger is crossing or getting lost in the myriad of tiny-windy streets.
One evening we had a lovely dinner with a group of American writers at a heritage farm; which not only produced their own wine they prepared and served Sammarinese delicacies.
Staying in San Marino also provided easy access to visiting Museo Ferrari, a company museum dedicated to the sports car; a surprisingly interesting and fabulous exhibit.
My partner, Mike, and I stayed for two nights at San Marino idesign “art and cult” Hotel which is located within a one-kilometre walk of the historic centre. A new and budget-friendly accommodation it offers a wonderful breakfast buffet. We enjoyed breathtaking panoramic views of the early morning sunrise.
For those of us that travelled extensively in Europe pre-eu collecting passport stamps in the countries visited, or walked the Camino de Santiago where nightly lodgings would mark your progression on a pilgrim's document, the custom of passport markings remains in San Marino.
For a donation of five Euros, to support community initiatives, they will happily oblige at The National Museum.
As a traveller, in the practice of sending postcards to myself I am happy to write, that the one sent from Strada Borrana arrived eight weeks after my return to the West Coast.