Vancouver Sun

A browning achievemen­t

- AARON HUTCHERSON

Browned food is tasty food. Just think about it: Would you prefer a steamed chicken breast or one that has been seared in a skillet? Even if they are seasoned exactly the same, the seared chicken will be more flavourful than the steamed one because how food is cooked impacts flavour, too.

Our senses have two chemical processes to thank for browned, better tasting food: the Maillard reaction and carameliza­tion. “In Maillard, sugars ... interact with the amino acids of proteins, creating a cascade of new flavours and aroma compounds, with several hundred possibilit­ies,” The Washington Post writer Becky Krystal wrote on the process, which kicks into gear at about 300 F (150 C). Carameliza­tion starts to happen around 340 F (171 C) (it varies depending on the type of sugar) and similarly creates new compounds, but only involves the breakdown of sugar molecules. These processes can't take place in moist cooking methods because the liquid will not go above the boiling point of 212 F (100 C), making Maillard hard to achieve and carameliza­tion impossible.

1 Dry your food

Drying the surface of ingredient­s is important because doing so means less energy from the cooking equipment is spent evaporatin­g water. Many of our recipes for meat and seafood in particular include the specific instructio­n to “pat dry with a towel” for this very reason, but you should dry fruit and vegetables too, especially if you washed them just before cooking. To go a step further, you can even leave proteins on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet uncovered in the refrigerat­or (on the bottom shelf ) for up to a day to get the surface really dry.

2 Know when to salt

If you salt a cut of steak and let it sit on your counter for 20 minutes while you do something else, you'll notice a layer of moisture on the surface. If you add the steak to the skillet at that moment, that moisture is enough to inhibit it from developing a deep brown crust. So for meat, you want to either salt it just before cooking or at least 45 minutes beforehand to allow the liquid to be reabsorbed (as what happens in dry brining). You can salt in advance for up to one day for small cuts of meat and two days for larger cuts. For fish, Serious Eats culinary editor Sasha Marx lists the recommende­d refrigerat­ed resting time as: “At least 45 minutes and up to 90 minutes for thick white fish fillets. At least 12 hours and up to 36 hours for Japanese-style salted salmon.”

3 Maybe add some sugar

Adding a pinch of sugar, particular­ly to ingredient­s that don't have much of it naturally, is an easy way to get carameliza­tion. However, do so judiciousl­y so your savory dish doesn't turn into a dessert.

4 Get your skillet (or oven or grill) hot

As I mentioned, a high temperatur­e is key for browning to occur. When adding ingredient­s to a skillet, a gentle sizzle lets you know that delicious things are heading your way. If quiet, let your pan continue to heat up before proceeding.

5 Give your food some space

Try as you might to remove moisture from the surface of food, there will still be water present that needs to escape during the cooking process if you want it to brown. Whether roasting broccoli on a sheet pan or searing chicken thighs in a skillet, it's important to not crowd the pan. That way, any moisture released during the cooking process has room to evaporate. Otherwise, it'll get trapped in your cooking vessel and the food will steam instead of brown.

6 Make contact — and consider applying pressure

While you can get some browning from the hot air in your oven during roasting, most is a result of contact with the pan. So if brown food is what you're after, it's better not to use parchment paper when roasting. When cooking ingredient­s on the stovetop or grill, especially proteins, I sometimes even gently press the food with a utensil (or my hand) to ensure even contact with the surface of the skillet or grill.

 ?? STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? An important thing to keep in mind when browning food is to make sure the pan is not crowded. “That way, any moisture released during the cooking process has room to evaporate,” writes Aaron Hutcherson.
STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST An important thing to keep in mind when browning food is to make sure the pan is not crowded. “That way, any moisture released during the cooking process has room to evaporate,” writes Aaron Hutcherson.

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