Vancouver Sun

WEEKEND WINE PICKS

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Tightrope Winery Pinot Gris 2022, Okanagan Valley $24 I 90/100

UPC: 6269901538­49 Fleet Road Vineyard is the estate home site and the lead source of this delicious Gris, with some nearby additions of neighbouri­ng areas. There is a bump of residual sugar in the mix, but plenty of balancing acidity is led by grapefruit, pear, and lemon zest. If you chill this down, it can easily carry pre-dinner, solo or with some spicy appetizers. Or consider a savoury roasted chicken as the supreme match for dinner. Available in 88 B.C. Liquor Stores.

Unsworth Vineyards Chardonnay 2021, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island $34.90 I 92/100

UPC: 6269903203­57

The year 2021 is the third for the Unsworth Chardonnay, which is no doubt surprising to some given the attention this grape is getting. The fruit comes off Mildenstei­n Vineyard, a Cowichan slope covered in marine silts. The winemaking is elementary, with a whole cluster press, partly native fermented in neutral barriques, and aged eight months on its lees. This is the best yet, with almost luscious acidity, tempered by the lees, with a salty hazelnut inner core, fresh lemon and green apple palate, and mineral finish. An impressive bottle with new vineyards and a new production facility to follow shortly. Oysters are the match.

Umani Ronchi Medoro Sangiovese 2021, Marche, Italy $14.99 I 87/100

UPC: 8032853720­479 Umani Ronchi is a respected producer of Marche wines and was a big hit at the Vancouver Internatio­nal Wine Festival. We thought Medoro, made only with Sangiovese, was a good buy at $14.99; you can buy it until the end of the month for $11.99. Expect an earthy nose that is spotted with some florals. On the palate, it is a medium-weight mix of cherries and earth with bright acidity and a clean finish. Pleasant and food-friendly, it is a lovely match for a Margherita pizza, a simple ragu, or a piece of hard cheese — a solid everyday red.

Church & State Wines Syrah 2019, Okanagan Valley $40.25 I 90/100

UPC: 6269903631­25

It is always fun to come back and taste B.C. Syrah as it ages. Ten months later, the classic C&S Syrah that mixes Coyote Bowl and Détente Vineyard fruit is just beginning to spread its wings. The fruit comes off the first and third Black Sage benches — post stainless steel fermentati­on — that pend 12 months in French barriques before bottling. The nose is aromatic, pitching classic violets and black pepper before morphing into blackcurra­nt and blueberry, which has shed most of its tannin. The finish is warm and spicy with more peppery tones. Lamb, anyone?

Culmina Family Estate Malbec 2020, Golden Mile Bench, Oliver, Okanagan Valley $42 I 89/100

UPC: 8274130010­48

The Malbec comes off two Golden Mile vineyards, Arise and Stan's Benches. After fermenting, it spends 16 months in all-french oak, with 30 per cent new and 70 per cent used one- and twoyear-old barrels. The attack is fragrant and savoury, with bright acidity and well-integrated tannins. This year, the palate is more red fruit mixed with licorice, tea and mineral notes. The winery has always worked hard with food and wine pairings. In 2020, they suggest black pepper, Malbec-braised pork shoulder, or aged cheeses such as Pecorino Romano or Manchego. The fruit set was low in 2020, leading to below-average yields, but the resulting grape quality was high. Drink or cellar through 2028.

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