CLASSIC PASTRY WITH SOUTHERN FLAIR
The scone that stole Olga Massov's heart is the handiwork of preternaturally talented pastry chef, Tanya Bush, only 27, who works at Evan Hanczor's popular Brooklyn breakfast and lunch restaurant, Little Egg. If traditional scones and southern ham biscuits got together, Bush's scones would be their progeny.
SCONES WITH GRUYERE AND COUNTRY HAM
Makes: 12 scones
■ 8 1/4 oz (250 g) gruyère cheese
■ 5 1/4 oz (150 g) country ham
■ 3 1/2 cups (440 g) all-purpose flour
■ 1/4 cup (30 g) whole-wheat flour
■ Scant 1/4 cup (40 g) granulated sugar
■ 4 tsp (16 g) baking powder
■ 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda
■ 3/4 tsp (4 mL) fine salt
■ 18 tbsp (2 sticks plus 2 tbsp/255 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch (1.2-cm) cubes (see notes)
■ 1 1/4 cups (300 g) cold, well-shaken buttermilk, preferably full-fat
■ 1/2 cup (55 g) finely chopped scallions (4 to 6 scallions)
■ 1 large egg
■ 1/2 tbsp (7.5 mL) heavy cream
■ Sesame seeds, for sprinkling
■ Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling
1. Position rack in middle of oven and preheat to 375 F (190 C). Line two large sheet pans with parchment paper.
2. Cut cheese and ham into large chunks and pulse each in mini food processor — in batches as needed — until finely chopped. Transfer each pulsed batch to medium bowl; you can combine the cheese and the ham in the same bowl. (Alternatively, you can finely hand-chop both ingredients.)
3. In bowl of stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, mix together all-purpose and wholewheat flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt just to combine. Add butter and mix on low speed until butter chunks are pea-size, 2-3 minutes. The mixture will look sandy, but have lots of loose flour and won't yet look like dough. Pinch a buttery piece with your fingers — it should hold together.
4. Make a well in the centre of mixture so you can see bottom of bowl, and pour in buttermilk. Mix on low to combine, stopping mixer once or twice and scraping sides and bottom of bowl to incorporate dry ingredients. Add gruyère, ham and scallions and mix on low to combine, being careful not to overmix. The dough will be rough, shaggy and fairly sticky — and will come together as you shape the scones.
5. Using a No. 8 (4-oz/120-mL) disher or 1/2-cup (125-mL)
measuring cup, scoop packed portions of dough and arrange on prepared sheet pans. Using your hands, shape each mound into 2-inch (5-cm) tall cylinders, roughly the size of a lemon; each should weigh about 130 grams. (Work quickly so as not to warm up butter. If you find your scooped scones are too sticky or soft to work with, refrigerate portions for 15-30 minutes, or until firmed up, then shape into cylinders as instructed above.)
6. Transfer pans to refrigerator for 15 minutes to let scones firm up and help keep their shape (no need to do this if you had to refrigerate them before shaping). Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the egg with cream until well combined.
7. Generously brush each chilled scone all over with the egg wash. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and a bit of flaky salt. Bake one sheet at a time — keep other sheet in refrigerator — for 30-33 minutes, or until deep golden brown and glossy, rotating sheet front to back at 15-minute mark. (You may see some fat pooling around scones as they bake; this is OK.)
8. Remove from oven and let scones cool for 5 minutes on the pan, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Substitutions: Instead of gruyère, try a sharp cheddar, Comté or fontina. No scallions? Use chives or Chinese chives.
Make ahead: The scones can be prepared up until the egg wash step and refrigerated, well-covered, for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze, place scones on sheet pan and freeze until solid, then transfer to airtight container. If baking from frozen, let scones sit at room temperature for 10-15 minutes, then brush with egg wash, and bake at 375 F (190 C) for 35-37 minutes.
Notes: The scones are best when still slightly warm, but can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. If storing, they taste better after being gently reheated in a 350 F (175 C) oven for a few minutes.
The easiest way to cube butter is to use a bench scraper — not knife — for cutting. Cut stick of butter in half lengthwise; rotate a quarter turn and cut lengthwise again. You should have 4 narrow batons of butter stacked in 2-by-2 arrangement. Cut across batons with a bench scraper to get 1/2-inch (1.2-cm) cubes.