AFFORDABLE EUROPEAN WINES OFFER DIVERSE GRAPE VARIETIES
A decade ago, I was inspired by the famous 1957 Frommer's Guide: Europe on $5 a Day to write a column on European wine selling for less than $25 a bottle — adjusted for inflation. The idea was to highlight fine-quality wine for less than $25. Today, we continue the challenge at less than $25 despite an adjusted inflation figure of $33 to see if we can develop a compelling list of wines.
Europe can be a treasure trove of quality affordable wine if only because it has so much to offer. While much of the New World continues to spin its wheels, growing and selling a handful of varietal wines led by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Europe's diversity of appellations and grape varieties has given it a new attraction to budding wine drinkers who want to embrace a more comprehensive selection of wines, especially those who enjoy wine with food.
Hence, varietal wines like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot give way to more enticing monikers such as Bordeaux, Rioja, Burgundy, Barolo, Cote du Rhone, Languedoc, not to mention grapes like Assyrtiko, Cortese, Furmint, Nebbiolo, Separavi, Ribolla Gialla and so many more. As a consumer, you have to work a bit harder to understand the wines of Europe, but the rewards are many. Higher acids, a leaner structure and often lower alcohol typically make it more drinkable with food. Perhaps the most significant difference is you tend to get more wine for your money when comparing European wines versus local labels.
For retailers, the idea of selling well-made, unique wines from a genuine place you can find on a map will become increasingly important as the fickle wine drinker wanders off into the low, or no-alcohol market, refreshment beverages, beer, or spirits market.
So, where does one begin to explore Europe? White wines can be particularly rewarding when they are food-friendly, and given the mix of seafood and Asian dishes available in B.C., Riesling or those with Riesling-like freshness (Germany, Italy or Austrian) is a great place to start. As we have mentioned in previous columns, Albariño (Spain), Viognier (France) and Grüner Veltliner (Austria) all come quickly to mind. Northern Italian whites, such as Cortese or Verdelho from Spain's Rueda region, are equally charming and pair well with light seafood dishes, grilled chicken, and pasta; few will break your budget.
The red wines of Europe are plentiful, and for the bored-outof-your-mind Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon drinker, they can be a much-needed tonic. Portugal's Douro Valley is a great place to look for dry reds. Sometimes, the wine is made from a field blend of 50 or 60 different grape varieties.
From Spain, the soft, easy-sipping Grenache and its earthy Monastrell (Mourvèdre) counterpart are all the rage with young people.
The price is right, and the fruit is even better. The Rhone Valley and the Languedoc have experienced a string of excellent harvests in France. When coupled with affordable prices, you have a rich selection of appellations, mixing Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, all gaining widespread consumer recognition from which to choose.
There is a treasure trove of Italian red wine, especially for adventurous drinkers heading south to the Marche, Basilicata, or Apulia regions. Each produces warm, generous reds that, over the last decade, have shown refinement that makes them reliable, everyday, go-to wines at fair prices.
As for travel, the $5-a-day tour equates to $60 today, or barely enough to get that extra bag on your flight to Europe.
Here's a short list of Europe for less than $25 a bottle. Enjoy!
■ Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge 2020, Rhone Valley, France, $17.99
■ Famiglia Pasqua `Romeo & Juliet' Passione e Sentimento Rosso 2021, Veneto, Italy, $18.99
■ El Petit Bonhomme Tinto 2022, Jumilla, Spain, $18.99
■ Paul Mas Viognier, Languedoc, France, $14.99
■ Pedra Cancela Dão Selecção do Enólogo 2018, Dão, Portugal, $18.99
■ Gérard Bertrand Corbières An 806 2019, Languedoc, France, $19.99
■ Selbach Riesling Fish Label 2021 Riesling, Mosel, Germany, $20.99
■ Basilisco Teodosio Aglianico del Vulture 2018, Basilicata, Italy, $21.99
■ Chateau de la Gravelle Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire, France 2020, $21.99
■ Laurenz V. Singing Grüner Veltliner 2022 Kamptal, Austria, $23.99