TIRED OF CHAMPAGNE? IT'S TIME TO TRY PERRY
A spring journey to Bowen Island leads to the discovery of a family-run cidery
I don't like champagne.
There. I've said it. Force a glass of champagne into my hand and there's a good chance I'm tipping that glass into a potted palm. I'm probably responsible for the mysterious die-off of dozens of indoor tropicals. The authorities, however, would have a hard time assigning these misdemeanours to me — lots of people secretly don't care for champagne.
Custom has it, nevertheless, that we celebrate weddings with a champagne toast. And not just weddings, but graduations, sports victories, coronations, elections, the christening of ships, successful bank heists — accomplishment of any description will prompt the appearance of an expensive bottle of the bubbly.
And, oh my, but we pay through the nose for that sparkling grape juice. Generally speaking, a bottle of real champagne starts at around $100. Given that you get about five glasses out of a standard 750 ml bottle, that works out to about $20 a glass. Many's the father of the bride who has grieved the sight of cigarette butts floating in half-full abandoned flutes.
The history of champagne is a colourful one that dates back to the ninth-century coronations of French kings at Reims. Back then, champagne was still a wine, and slightly pink in colour. Since the 18th century, champagne has become defined as an effervescent white wine made from a small array of red grapes to which yeast and sugar have been added during the fermentation. This process of adding “liqueur de tirage” is what's known as the “Méthode Champenoise”. To qualify as genuine champagne, the whole operation has to take place in the Champagne district of France.
Luckily for me — and potted plants everywhere — I've stumbled upon a delightful alternative to champagne. Although it costs a fraction of what champagne does. Have you ever heard of Perry? No? Until very recently, nor had I.
It was a rare, spring day. The sun was shining, there was fresh snow on the coastal mountains. The day was ours to squander. Bowen Island seemed the perfect destination. Heading off from Snug Cove, a relatively new operation called Bowen Cider House caught our eye. The sign indicated that it was a family run cidery and working farm. For a small price, you could sample an array of ciders and have a charcuterie board on their patio.
Alistair Johnstone, Bowen Cider House's orchardist and cider maker, guided us through the samplings. There were about a half dozen ciders to try, as well as a rarity, called a scrumpy, which is an unfiltered, unsweetened, traditional cider that I'm going to say — shudder — is an acquired taste. Snug Cove Strubarb cider, however, glowed with delicious red fruit, and no one had to tell us that the vibrant Granny Cowan cider featured 70 per cent Granny Smith apples.
The one cider that snagged my palate, however, was the Pebbly Beach Pear. Alistair explained that this was Bowen Cider House's version of a historic Perry. A Perry, it turns out, is a specific cider made, not from apples, but exclusively from pears. His wasn't, however, a true Perry as that can only be made from Perry pears, whereas Bowen Cider House's version is made from Bartlett pears.
Centuries ago, Perry was Champagne's rival. It, too, has numerous strictures as to what qualifies as a genuine Perry.
It has many of the features of champagne, but the price tag is equivalent to about the cost of a single flute of French bubbles.
Sipping Perry on the Bowen Cider House's patio under a blue sky made for an ideal day. And no potted palms were killed in the process.
Jane Macdougall is a freelance writer and former National Post columnist who lives in Vancouver. She writes The Bookless Club every Saturday online and in The Vancouver Sun. For more of what Jane's up to, check out her website, janemacdougall.com
THIS WEEK'S QUESTION FOR READERS:
Q: Champagne? Love it or toss it?
Send your answers by email text, not an attachment, in 100 words or less, along with your full name to Jane at thebooklessclub@gmail.com. We will print some next week in this space.
LAST WEEK'S QUESTION FOR READERS:
Q: Is night driving made worse by the new headlights?
■ I am delighted to hear that they are investigating the effects of the overly bright headlights on today's vehicles. Although I try to avoid night-driving, especially in the rain, I have been blinded more than once by other drivers' lights. Perhaps the best solution would be to have an “in city” setting as the street lights would supplement visibility adequately.
Krista Bedard
■ Yes, yes, yes and yes again!
I am astounded that these blinding headlights were approved for use. While they provide greater visibility to the driver of the car using them, it has been my experience that they literally blind oncoming drivers. Maybe if the oncoming driver is sitting higher than the height of the headlights it may not be a problem. Otherwise, pray you will regain your sight instantly once the vehicle has passed. My feeling is they should be forbidden.
Elizabeth Straforelli
■ You didn't mention the use of yellow-tinted eyeglasses. These are invaluable in reducing the effect of bright lights. They're cheap and effective. I've been using a pair for years and have recommended them to friends.