Vancouver Sun

Celery takes centre stage in this decadent soup

- AARON HUTCHERSON

Celery rarely gets the spotlight. Sure, it's plenty popular as a foundation­al ingredient in countless recipes — such as part of the French mirepoix alongside onions and carrots — but when was the last time you saw it on a restaurant menu as a star ingredient? Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage and so many other vegetables have had lengthy star turns. But not celery.

It's like those character actors whose faces we all know from some of our favourite shows and movies but have to look up their names every time we see them to help us remember who they are.

But celery possesses an often-overlooked main character energy. It can take the lead and be so much more than just one of many ingredient­s you throw into soups and stocks or are given as a freebie with your order of Buffalo wings. Celery's possibilit­ies are limited only by a cook's imaginatio­n.

So when I was flipping through Big Heart Little Stove by Erin French, a recipe for soup using an entire bunch of celery caught my eye. “Fresh, sweet celery cooked down with aromatics and given decadent body with butter and cream is nothing short of elegant,” French wrote in the introducti­on to the recipe. With words like “decadent” and “elegant,” I was hooked, so I used it as inspiratio­n for my own version.

This recipe calls for an entire bunch of celery, and the vegetable's flavour gets taken up a couple of notches with celery seeds in the soup and celery leaves used as garnish. (The leaves are full of flavour and nutrients.) A couple of Honeycrisp apples — or whatever variety you have on hand — add an extra touch of sweetness, while canned white beans lend earthiness, body and protein to the soup.

Simmered in chicken or vegetable broth or stock — alongside onion, garlic and butter — until tender, the entire pot gets puréed with an immersion blender until smooth. Heavy cream gets stirred in at the end for even more lusciousne­ss.

Last but not least, a sprinkle of chopped pistachios and a drizzle of olive oil are added to each bowl for nuttiness, texture and even more richness.

That first spoonful brought a smile to my face that only grew with each subsequent slurp — and I'm certain it will do the same for you.

 ?? REY LOPEZ/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ??
REY LOPEZ/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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