THE CIVIC

Village Post - - Food -

106 Broad­view Av­enue 416-362-8439 the­broad­viewho­tel.ca

Co-own­ers Erik Joyal and ex­ec­u­tive chef John Si­nop­oli

East en­ders (and GTAwide food­ies) soak in the old­world, Vic­to­rian charm Mo­town & soul

Red deer tartare, duck con­fit, beets and stil­ton

Up­hill Both Ways, a bour­bon, amaro and sherry cock­tail $115 for two

Sun. to Wed. 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Thurs. to Sat. 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Rec­om­mended, but walk-ins are welcome Years ago, I had a news­pa­per as­sign­ment to write about a Miche­lin starred chef on the Cote d’Azur.

The chef was Jac­ques Max­imin of Chante­cler in Nice. He talked a lot about what he most loved to cook and the cus­tomers he most loved to cook for.

It was a shock when Max­imin first told me that above all else he adored be­ing asked for a plain roast chicken.

His favourite cus­tomer was the ac­tor Omar Sharif who only ever asked for a roast chicken. Oc­ca­sion­ally Max­imin would slip a few truf­fle slices un­der the skin, but mostly he kept it sim­ple.

He used to say that only the most sim­ple of ex­e­cu­tions showed the met­tle of a chef — and the qual­ity of the in­gre­di­ents. This of course is the true heart of French cook­ing — not, as some be­lieve, ob­fus­cat­ing mat­ters with sauce, but rather ex­pos­ing the el­e­gance of per­fect in­gre­di­ents.

Hence my search for a per­fect roast chicken.

So I was ex­cited to dis­cover roast chicken on the menu at the Civic, the new snazzy resto on the

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