Bistro strikes balance between casual value and fine cuisine
On entering Fistro Bistro, a relatively new restaurant in Cambridge, diners will see a sleek six-seat bar, and a chef’s or communal table comfortably seating eight. To the left, well-spaced wooden tables sport casual brown paper table coverings. The bright, long, narrow space is surprisingly insulated from its strip mall-setting by strategically placed frosted glass; however, finding balance between lively and noisy inside may prove an ongoing challenge. Given the expanse of hard surfaces, wood floors, subway tile walls and extensive windows, the restaurant is liable to be noisy when full, with people’s voices carrying right across the room when it is emptier.
Shortly after we were settled and water had been poured, a complimentary amusebouche delivered a sensory awakening. A perfect tiny gem of layered thinly-sliced beet and goat’s cheese topped with crème fraîche and a couple of thyme leaves, was served offset on a large plate, and accented with dots of balsamic and olive oil. We were prettily primed for more.
The menu, which changes often, was short, with just five appetizers and mains available. There was also a prix-fixe option ($45) featuring the same amuse-bouche and three courses, each offering a choice of at least two dishes, all sounding inviting. I ordered off the menu while my wife opted for the prix fixe.
Her Beef Tataki, the meat seared briefly and then sliced, was very well executed. The beef was accented by a pepper-lime rub: shaved parmesan, fried capers and slivers of candied lemon zest and a scatter of chopped red cabbage leaves, completed the dish. My tender grilled Pacific Octopus ($18) was also very good. It came served on “popcorn” grits with smoked paprika marmalade and shaved fennel.
We ordered a DeLoach Californian Pinot Noir Wine ($18 for 9 oz.), a good pairing to our food selections. It was served in a tall tumbler, affected informality at the expense of an opportunity to show a good wine at its best, including the ability to savour its bouquet. Had we known proper Riedel crystal stemware was available upon request we would have asked for it.
The mains were excellent too, not fussy but showing great technique. New Zealand Lamb shank was very tender and was served on creamy polenta. It was accompanied by wilted curly kale and figs, and my spouse, a lamb aficionado, declared it the best she’d had in years. High praise indeed.
My comfortable portion of AAA Beef Striploin ($27), cooked to perfect medium rare, was accompanied by a glossy red wine, veal demi-glace that takes days to make. Spicing on the veggies was uneven, the arugula salad with pickled red onion a tad salty, the Parisian-style, squat Pont Neuf potatoes wanting just a hint more. A word on the potatoes which came in a playful Jenga-like stack: they were perfectly cooked, crisp, but not too crisp, the interior fluffy and soft. As I said, great technique.
My Fig and Honey Tart ($13) was nearly terrific. Twice. The candied figs and lemon rind were perfect, as was the whipped mascarpone. Sadly, the puff pastry was undercooked, and a re-fire proved no better. The server removed it from the bill without being asked, and some chocolate chip cookies with berry coulis appeared by way of consolation.
My wife will default to chocolate for dessert whenever possible. The beautifully-plated coconut and chocolate ganache fitted the bill, and I would not have been surprised had she ordered a second. Delicious, the coconut providing unctuous smoothness rather than flavour, it came with brownie crumble, candied orange and a few hits of preserved berries.
My wife declared her meal “top flight” and we are both keen to return. We might even avail ourselves of the Supper Club part of Fistro: Owner Christopher Farrell told me the entire menu is available for takeout and pre-ordered meals are delivered to your car in returnable stainless steel Tiffin boxes.