Skijoring along Stoney Lake
Dogs rule at the Viamede Resort near Peterborough
WOODVIEW, ONT. — An expanse of frozen Stoney Lake lay before us, a thick duvet of pristine snow upon it like a canvas waiting for Toby and me to dash across.
The Golden Retriever was in his skijoring traces, me on crosscountry skis under a crisp blue sky at Viamede Resort near Peterborough, where dogs rule. Resort owner Ben Samann urged Toby on and, with some vigorous poling to help him get started, we were soon cutting arcs through the snow.
Skijoring is a Norwegian term meaning ski driving. It often uses horses to pull skiers, but I was content with Toby’s sedate pace.
Oh, there were diversions, a stop here to read some pee-mail, a burrowing there to trace an enchanting scent, so there was a herky-jerky quality to the experience. Still, even a few minutes of human-canine bonding via skijoring harness was the highlight of a weekend stay at the resort.
Toby clearly loved it, and when we got up to speed was stretching out in full stride to haul me close to shore. An elasticized tow rope assured he wasn’t under any undue strain, and the compunction to be part of the team meant this was not a lazy man’s activity.
It was the same experience with Daisy, the other house Golden, as she stepped into the harness and romped helter-shelter close to shore.
The resort, which is a 2.5-hour drive from Hamilton, offers a cornucopia of winter activities in a yin-and-yang experience that includes high-end dining and lolling by fireplaces.
And your dog is equally welcome at no extra cost under Viamede’s Pet Guarantee, which promises free roaming over six kilometres of the resort’s trails, access to a fenced dog park and use of doggie beds, food bowls and other pet paraphernalia if you’ve forgotten something.
What’s more, for every dog staying at the resort, $10 is donated to the Maggy fund supporting the rescue of Golden Retrievers ($20 if you have a Golden). It honours a late house Golden.
Owner and general manager Samann works closely with Golden Rescue, which runs a program called Rescue Mission of Love. It has rescued more than 100 Goldens from the streets of Istanbul, and Samann took a personal trip to Turkey to assess the situation. He has three rescue dogs himself.
When Toby and Daisy aren’t pulling skiers, they are available to accompany guests as they hike, cross-country ski or snowshoe around the 165-acre property. He might even chase pucks in pickup hockey games on the rink fashioned on Stoney Lake.
Or he might just curl up at your feet in Club 1885, which signifies the origins of the resort. It features a roaring fireplace, all-day complimentary snacks and cappuccinos as well as a kids’ play zone.
After a day of outside activity, the indoor/outdoor pool and steam room are a warm respite from the cold. Brushing through a transparent curtain takes you from indoor pool to an outdoor setting where the stars might bless you with a heavenly appearance.
There is also a spa for pampering and a brilliant dining experience at the nine-table Mount Julian restaurant, where tasting menus with optional flights of wine are available in five-, sevenand nine-course versions.
The theme on a visit was strongly locavore under chef Kevin McKenna, much of the produce and protein straight from the resort’s own farm and local providers in the Kawartha region. The wines are generally selected from Prince Edward County by owner Samann.
Viamede Farm raises chickens, turkeys, pigs, quail and ducks, and each item in the tasting menus features a local component.
In the growing seasons, staff lead foraging missions in the surrounding forests and scours local farmers markets to supplement produce grown on site.
McKenna has moved on to other pursuits, and Samann feels new chef Jay Nutt will provide the same kind of creativity.
The attention to detail played out superbly in the nine-course experience ($115 per person plus $57.50 each for wine flights).
That’s a hefty investment but the dividends play out for years in memories of a meal expertly prepared, artistically designed and professionally delivered.
From opening canapés to the dessert flourish of Sorso Bianca Angelette, McKenna’s deft touch imbued each course with a symphony of flavours and textures.
Consider the complex amusebouche which popped on to the table.
There was petite bits of organic Manitoulin Island lake trout with a maple gastrique, served on a radish from the resort’s garden, and venison pâté with grapefruit caviar as well as sliced pork lardon (from the Viamede farm) on homemade baguette. It was a magic medley of tastes and textures.
The Cinghiale also impressed. The tender rafts of wild boar loin sat on a puddle of walnut polenta, with a garnish of roast pumpkin kale and dusting of fennel pollen.
And the artful close to the twohour feast was Sorso Bianco Angelette, honey filbert meringues perched on a square of apple tart and reclining against a tub of frangelica foam.
All told it was a kaleidoscope of flavours and food art. And with a wine pairing at each stage, it was a decadent counterpart to the cold of the lake and trails.
Viamede also runs special culinary events like the winter Gathering. Nutt recently played host to a night of culinary nostalgia with a hearty winter feast. The three-course meal ($95) was inspired by foods and preserves that were enjoyed on the homestead all the way back to the time when this country was formed. It featured local and seasonal beverages like the Cellar Old Fashioned, along with other cocktails. Live music and dancing followed. Viamede also stages a summer Gathering culinary event.