Old Marina Restaurant, a lakeside delight
Puffy white clouds float across the big blue sky as sunlight catches ripples left by a water skier. On the far side of Puslinch Lake, the horizon rests on a lush green canopy. I’m on the patio at the Old Marina Restaurant, taking it in as I sip an icy glass of lemon water on this storybook hot summer afternoon.
You know what they say: the early bird snags the sun umbrella. I arrive a few minutes before 5 p.m. and am immediately led to the almost full patio. Half an hour later, when traffic frees my companion, the main room is buzzing and the queue is to the door. As reservations are only for groups of 12 or more, wait times can range from non-existent to about an hour.
The Old Marina sits by a trailer park and a water ski school in Cambridge’s leafy outskirts. Cross the gravel parking lot and enter the cottagelike building to find a gift counter below an overhead toy railway. Beyond the hostess stand, the rustic dining room’s large windows allow diners a view of the lake.
It may be a family restaurant today, but 90 years ago the hotel at Puslinch Lake was a verandawrapped resort and dance pavilion. Crowds of up to 400 came from all over southern Ontario to cut a rug to big bands — including (rumour has it) Guy Lombardo and His Royal Canadians. The dance band era ended. Other businesses came and went. The Old Marina opened 25 years ago, but the original building was destroyed by fire in 2005. The rebuilt restaurant reopened two years later.
We sipped glasses of Caliterra Cabernet Sauvignon ($9) and pop ($3.25) and read the menu. Familiar offerings satisfy a range of moods from dinner salads to burgers to homier dishes such as stuffed chicken or liver and onions. Vegetarians and those wanting wheat-free options have limited choice. Being a marina, some fish and seafood dishes are offered. Ingredients are better than found at many similar family restaurants, and portions are typically generous.
A board of three tall, stout, and bronzed Crab Cakes ($13.50) arrived. Shaped from a mild mix of soft bread crumbs mixed with crab meat and studded with bell peppers, the trio was strewn with chopped tomatoes, onions, and coriander leaf. A drizzle of smoky chipotle sauce finished the dish. The rich and creamy Spinach Dip ($11) came with plenty of pita wedges for dipping and scooping.
Accompanying the Fish and Chips ($17.50) were small pots of coleslaw, tartar sauce and a fat lemon slice. The sizeable handbattered cod fillet was fried to a deep golden and perched on hand-cut fries. Breaking through the crisp beer batter crust found tender, pearlescent fish.
It’s easy to see why The Famous Puslinch Burger (with cheese and bacon, $17.50) is a favourite: a towering construction with a nearly two-inch thick, meatloaflike patty, bacon slices, and frico-like griddled cheese. Draped over the patty, the lacyedged cheese gown was twice as wide as the burger itself: It would have put Scarlett O’Hara to shame.
I don’t recall having a sweet at the end of my previous supper at the Old Marina and now I wonder why because their house-made desserts are reminiscent of good home baking. The Pie of the Day (Coconut Cream, $4.99) was rich and chock-a-block with shredded coconut on a rubbly graham crumb crust. The Muskoka-sized (raisin-free) Butter Tart ($2.99) cradled gooey filling in crisp, light pastry.
Our server was amiable and attentive. While timing could be better (the mains arrived far too early), guest experience was front and centre. Although she was relatively new, she had tried many dishes and offered good suggestions.
Semihidden in a rustic part of the area, the Old Marina Restaurant offers familiar family friendly food, homestyle desserts and cheerful service. Lucky are you if you have a seat on the patio and a slice of coconut cream pie on your plate.
Assessing food, atmosphere, service and prices. Dining Out restaurant reviews are based on anonymous visits to the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Jasmine Mangalaseril can be reached at twitter.com/cardamomaddict.