Gayuma serves Asian fusion from the heart
No mystery why these offerings are so popular
Given the positive online buzz about Gayuma Catering’s takeout Asian fusion dishes, and how fast they sold out, I was delighted when I finally successfully placed an order. Everything about the place seemed happy, from the jaunty logo, incorporating chopsticks and noodles into the letter G, to the upbeat social media posts, often featuring the radiant owners.
Katrina Tioco came from the Philippines in 2006 as a caregiver, and still has family there she supports financially. She eventually worked as a nanny for Canadian-born Jinny Song, whose ancestry is South Korean. That’s how Song came to appreciate just how good a cook Tioco is.
Two years ago, Song convinced Tioco to do some food pop-ups at the bubble tea shop she manages. She was certain people would love her nowfriend’s cooking, saying “I really wanted to get her food out there. She never believed in herself, but I did. She’s the sister I never had.”
Not long thereafter, they started Gayuma, originally catering to tech sector companies. With corporate offices closed because of COVID-19, they lost all their clients. “We still had family to support and rent to pay, so we changed our business model very quickly, beginning with a Facebook post. It was slow in the beginning: the first week we had just 10 orders, but it grew each week and we are now at capacity every weekend. We are so grateful. In a way, it was a blessing in disguise.”
Tioco says her grandfather served as the inspiration for the name Gayuma. During the ’60s, impatient customers lined up at his restaurant, pressing him to tell them what made his food so special and worth the wait. He told them he cooked everything from scratch, with all his heart, and that was why they were there. The Filipino word Gayuma, “that which attracts,” encapsulated his offerings.
She says that is the way she cooks now. “I can’t speed it up, and people are so patient with me. I decide what to cook once I’m at the grocery store. And I’ve had to accommodate all sorts of allergies, so have had to find alternative ingredients that can work in the dishes to substitute for things like peanuts. Guided by her grandmother during Facebook chats, she’s found various Asian herbs and seeds that can serve as replacements, while keeping the dishes tasting right.”
Dodging summer downpours, I picked up my order at the back of a small strip mall off Weber Street. A small sign by a nondescript door directed me to call to get my order. Once the door opened, there, above the masks, were those same smiling eyes I had seen on Facebook. I was the last client of the day, so the ladies had time to chat before closing.
Tioco’s actual sister — another radiant smile beaming from the back of the store — was responsible for folding each of the 20 dumplings that comprised part of our order. Half beef, half pork, with garlic, shallots, salt and pepper, they were delicious in Tioco’s signature, a beautifully clear and garlicky, 48-hour chicken soup. The accompanying ginger soy sauce also provided contrasting flavour.
Song told me that Chap Chae is a sweet potato glass noodle Korean dish, more savoury than spicy. She said Tioco makes it better than she can, adding the highest of praise, “it’s like my mother’s.” The ground beef was marinated overnight with sesame oil, soya sauce, brown sugar, crushed garlic and pepper, before being sautéed with green onion and added to the noodles. A small container of brought-in Sriracha allowed for a bit of heat for those so inclined. I could frankly have done with the protein being a bit more prominent among the other ingredients — peppers, carrot, shiitake mushrooms, spinach and sesame seeds — but that is the merest of quibbles.
The copious and truly satisfying meal — consciously made affordable by Tioco and Song to give back to the community during COVID — was most enjoyable. Everyone was keen to order again, and I’ll certainly be watching out for what is on offer each week, and for what the future holds for these joyful entrepreneurs.
Dining In columns focus on Waterloo Region’s delivery, pickup, and takeaway dishes and are based on unannounced orders from the establishments. Restaurants do not pay for any portion of the reviewer’s meal. Alex Bielak can be reached via Facebook.com/Food4ThoughtArchives or Twitter (@alexbielak).