Ample pub/bistro fare in the countryside
Ridge Social Eatery in Roseville is perfectly positioned as the region grows, despite its location
Sometimes we reviewers make truly ill-considered decisions. About the second inelegant bite into my main at The Ridge Social Eatery in Roseville, I regretted having allowed my viscera to dictate my choice of starter.
I had ordered the cornbread ($14), planning to share this with my consort — along with some tastysounding mussels — as a prelude to the mains. The mussels proved unavailable, corn fritters seemed out of season, and though citrus cauliflower sounded enticing, we passed on any further additions.
The cornbread arrived licketysplit — four sizeable, friable chunks grilled on the gas range, infused with a subtle melding of smoked cheddar, habanero pepper and honey butter. Despite a regrettable hint of gas, the dish was incredibly moreish.
We — OK, I — gorged determinedly like rabbits on a spring clover patch, which is what got me in trouble.
Reluctantly eschewing other entree choices — crispy pork belly ($32) and beef cheek bourguignon ($30) seemed potentially a bit heavy — I had defaulted to the reviewer’s standard calibration tool, the house burger.
The Ridge burger ($16) — with added cheddar and bacon ($1.50 apiece) — came hot off the grill, complete with a fresh brioche bun, aioli, tomato and lettuce. It also arrived with plenty of crisp homemade fries. Cornbread-crammed, by the second bite I knew there was no way I could manage more, good as it all was.
Roseville, in the township of North Dumfries and located just off Highway 401 between Ayr and Kitchener, is a rural community that hosted the 2012 International Plowing Match and Rural Expo.
In a feat of glass-half-full marketing, the Ridge’s new owners, Kendra Clark and her chef husband, Mike Eckhardt, describe their recently renovated restaurant as being “in the middle of nowhere, yet in the heart of everything.”
During the 20-minute drive from Waterloo, one couldn’t fail to observe the level of development ongoing along Fischer-Hallman Road. So, while still officially in the boonies, the Ridge will be well-positioned to be an eatery of choice for the occupants of all that new housing.
Our cheerful and helpful server quickly sat us by a window table where I could observe vehicles whipping by to my right, in contrast to the serene and well-decorated room to my left. Soft jazz provided exactly the right soundtrack to our efficient supper. A new offering of seasonal evening entrées was launched in May. It supplements other regular menu items, including interesting small plates, soups and salads, burgers, wraps and fish and chips.
For her main, madame chose barbecue duck ($32). Think of a sexedup version of your grandparents’ duck à l’orange but featuring ingredients unknown to most in the west during the original’s heyday in the 1960s: fat Shanghai noodles, black chili vinegar sauce, lychees and snap peas. The duck — two confit drumsticks finished on the barbecue — was succulent and the retroish dish met with considerable favour.
To finish, I struggled to sample a morsel of lemon and coconut square ($8).
Capped with a veritable avalanche of ice cream and powdered sugar, it proved too sweet by half.
A butter tart square was polished off quickly by herself, who declared all butter tarts should be made that way.
Eckhardt — an experienced chef with a background in high-end catering, dining and other culinary operations — says he and his wife were excited to take on the property last December, even though they were immediately obliged by COVID to offer takeout only.
The dining room reopened in February. He’s currently alone in the kitchen, afflicted, as are others, by a dearth of staff. To say he’s stretched, particularly on weekends, is an understatement.
Clark describes herself as “the big mouth who runs front of house and social media.” The Ridge has certainly developed a vigorous Twitter presence: far from all of it is about the restaurant or menu, but it does get folk talking about the Ridge in Roseville.
Clark hesitates to use the term gastro pub to describe their operation. She’s right. It’s squarely pub/ bistro fare, but carefully prepared and presented.
I wish them well as they continue to forge their identity and draw customers from across the region.
DINING COLUMNS FOCUS ON THE FOOD AVAILABLE FOR PICKUP, TAKEOUT, AND DELIVERY IN WATERLOO REGION, AS WELL AS MEALS TAKEN ON PATIOS AND IN RESTAURANTS. THEY ARE BASED ON UNANNOUNCED ORDERS FROM OR VISITS TO THE ESTABLISHMENTS. RESTAURANTS DO NOT PAY FOR ANY PORTION OF THE REVIEWER’S MEAL. ALEX BIELAK CAN BE REACHED VIA FACEBOOK.COM/ FOOD4THOUGHT ARCHIVES OR TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM @ALEXBIELAK