Taste of place drives sous chef’s passion project
On his days off, Langdon Hall’s Daniel Angus turns his focus from savoury to sweet at his Terroir Artisan Bakery in Cambridge
Daniel Angus is clearly in his happy place as he jiggles crusty sourdough loaves soon to emerge from a 500degree oven. Checking their doneness, he thoughtfully answers questions about his personal ethos, and baking and Viennoiserie, a subclass of pastry exemplified by croissants.
Passion for his craft shines, whether in person or via his social media. It melds baking’s precision with the diligence and creativity instilled through eight years as a leader in one of Canada’s top kitchens, Langdon Hall.
It’s a truism most chefs are happier cooking apps and mains than desserts or baking. In the culinary world, Angus is an oddity, a crossover from savoury to sweet.
Just 30, he has an impressive resumé. Trained at George Brown, he’s spent over half his life in kitchens. After five years at Toronto’s finedining Pangaea Restaurant, he undertook short training stints in the U.S, including at Eleven Madison Park, deemed 2017’s World’s Best Restaurant.
Feeling home’s call, he returned in 2016, as sous chef to his mentor, Langdon’s executive chef, Jason Bangerter. Angus has managed day-to-day operations for seven years, his appreciation for locally sourced ingredients and terroir growing exponentially.
He began a passion project, spending his days off baking, developing a business dedicated to expressing terroir, that ineffable taste of place.
Word is spreading about the quality of his Terroir Artisan Bakery offerings.
“The product is incredible,” says Chef Arielle Neils, one of the quietly, most-influential chefs in Waterloo Region. She happily drives from north Waterloo to buy baked goods in Cambridge on a Saturday, the only day the product is currently available for in-person pickup from the bakery’s tiny storefront. (For details and delivery options see terroirartisanbakery.ca.)
It can be difficult to find. Angus is renting production space from fellow chef-turned-baker Mark Andrew Brown, owner of Lady Glaze Doughnuts. While the Terroir operation is limited presently, Angus wants to expand eventually, opening a brick and mortar bakery where he can hold classes and offer monthly collaborative tasting menus.
“It’s just me and my wife doing this once a week and there’s a very delicate balance of supply, which is low, and demand, which is high,” says Angus.
Thus, the major part of his business currently is supplying a number of restaurants and small cafés, such as Lucero in Kitchener, with which Angus has a collaboration.
“The best quality and freshest local ingredients — sourced from farmers I’ve developed connections and relationships with — fulfils me personally, supports my neighbours, and leads to the best flavour in my products,” Angus says.
He also mentions he and his wife are expecting a second child and want to do their bit for the sustainability of the planet.
So, no pain-au-chocolat for him, as cacao beans aren’t grown in Canada. Instead, Angus underscores how important local products are to him, rhyming off suppliers he uses for his “different” croissants: “I do not know anyone else using St. Brigid’s Creamery 84 per cent milkfat butter in their dough. Grass fed. Beautiful colour.” And Angus should know, his grandfather was a butter maker.
“I use organic flour from a Mennonite community in Howick, Ont. Eby Manor milk, Canadian salt. I incorporate whole-grain flour to the dough to add flavour while retaining the lightness of a traditional croissant. And hazelnuts from Niagara for Maple-Hazelnut Croissants.”
When we get talking about other purveyors of croissants, he’s quick to rise to a perceived challenge, proclaiming he’d put his up against a competitor’s offerings “any day of the week.”
He’s already supplying frozen croissants commercially and is intrigued by the potential direct-toconsumer market. His family in Barrie has been after him to provide ready-to-proof croissants they can bake at home.
He’s also noted Loblaw’s have begun selling frozen Viennoiserie under the President’s Choice brand and he’s contemplating doing something similar. Having conducted a test he says, “In a way it frustrates me because I taste the quality and I know what it can be.”
As Angus pulls the loaves from the oven, he concludes, “Ontario is so special. I want to celebrate that.”
Ontario is so special. I want to celebrate that.
DANIEL ANGUS CHEF