Where Calgary - - DINING -

From the minty green ex­te­rior, pink-tinged dé­cor—and lack of the other­wise stan­dard but­ter chicken, Cal­cutta Cricket Club has set it­self apart from most In­dian restau­rants. That’s not to say tra­di­tion has no place here. It’s pep­pered on the menu, in the form of dishes made from fam­ily recipes passed down over gen­er­a­tions, like the Parsi prawns and lamb kosha mang­sho. Ben­gali cui­sine is the fo­cus with a few large-for­mat dishes, such as a bi­son biryani that per­fumes the room with aro­matic spices when its pas­try lid is cracked open. Street food favourite kathi rolls —meats, herbs and sauce rolled up in a flaky paratha—are a must-or­der, as is the chili chicken, which is dou­ble-fried and tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce, topped with fiery green chilis (page 52).

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