glaciers, rivers, falls & lakes your summer playground
Water as Muse
From June 14 to October 18, the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff (p 57) features an ode to ‘eau’. Water is a visually stunning exhibit, showcasing paintings, videos and installations from the mid 1800s to today.
Anne Ewen, the museum’s curator of art and heritage, says there’s beauty and bleakness in the show. In our own backyard, environmental issues such as flooding and receding glaciers are highlighted through comparative art and imagery that may shock the eye.
Recent photographs of shrinking glaciers contrast with shots taken over 100 years ago by Vaux family members. These juxtaposed images are the focus of another Whyte exhibit, Legacy in Time (p 56), which runs parallel to Water.
Other pieces in Water reflect the Canadian Rockies’ majesty, like an oil painting by museum founder Peter Whyte. His Mount Ringrose, Oesa Falls portrays a waterfall above breathtaking Lake O’Hara (p 30). Whyte and his wife (and museum co-founder) Catharine were avid hikers and painters of the region.
Ewen is also excited about an installation by artist Faye HeavyShield. “She’s created over 100 little paper and wax boats. The installation follows the flow of the river nearby you—in our case, the Bow River (p 46),” she explains. Another piece is Shelley Ouellet’s Johnston Falls from the collection of the Alberta Foundation for the Arts, which brings to life the popular canyon hiking destination (p 45) through 80,000 beads that pour downward and spill onto the floor.
Water is integral to Canadian identity, Ewen says. “A lot of people, when they think about Canada, think about pristine waterways and the canoe. I hope this exhibition will help people recognize the preciousness of water, and think
about how they’ll respect it when they’re out on it or in it,” she notes.
Water is historically significant to this region—it led to the creation of Banff National Park. In 1883, three railway workers discovered thermal springs at what is now the Cave and Basin National Historic Site (p 57). An ownership dispute ensued, and in 1885 the federal government made the area Canada’s first national park.
Today, you can soak in the mineral-rich waters of the Banff Upper Hot Springs (p 89). At the Miette Hot Springs in Jasper (naturally the Canadian Rockies’ warmest), water is cooled from 54°C to 40°C before it enters the pool (p 148). The Kootenay Rockies boast several heavenly hot springs (p 34 and 35).
Visitors also come from afar to see iconic Canadian Rockies lakes, glaciers and falls. The aqua- marine and brilliant blue waters of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are bucket-list worthy. Rent a canoe (p 66) or walk the lakeshore (p 46).
Closer to the Banff townsite, explore Lake Minnewanka—the national park’s largest—by boat (tours and rentals p 66) or on foot. Nearby are Two Jack and Johnson lakes (p 45). All three are great spots to spend a summer day (Lake Minnewanka has a café with drinks and snacks; Johnson Lake is ‘warmest’ for swimming). You’ll likely spot bighorn sheep out for a roadside stroll.
North of Lake Louise beside the Icefields Parkway are Bow and Peyto lakes (p 43). At Bow Lake, gaze up at Bow and Crowfoot glaciers that feed the Bow River, which runs into the South Saskatchewan River and eventually Hudson’s Bay.
The Icefields Parkway (p 43 and 131) traces the spine of the Continental Divide. One hundred glaciers grace its western flank. The most
famous is the Athabasca Glacier at the Columbia Icefield (p 44). The glacier makes up less than 3% of the icefield, and over the past 125 years has lost half its volume and receded by 1.5 km/1 mi—a testament to water’s preciousness.
The Columbia Icefield is vast; its meltwaters feed the Pacific, Arctic and Atlantic oceans. Venture onto the icefield by Ice Explorer tour or guided walk (p 76 and 142), or soar above the 215-sq km/ 130-sq mi area on a heli-tour (p 72 and 140). South of the Jasper townsite is Maligne Lake, the Canadian Rockies’ largest glacially fed lake. Cruise to iconic Spirit Island, rent a boat (p 137) or walk the shoreline (p 132). Fancy yourself an angler? Take a guided fishing excursion (p 137).
However you choose to dive into the Canadian Rockies this summer, our glaciers, rivers, falls and lakes—not to mention towering peaks— provide an outdoor playground like no other. Get out there and have an adventure!
For visitors—and locals on a staycation—the Canadian Rockies are synonymous with big mountain skiing, hiking to pristine lakes and countless other outdoor pursuits like canoeing on waterways amidst peaks. While we’re far from the coast, much of our...