Co­conut La­goon

Where Ottawa - - WHERE / WHAT / WHEN -

Co­conut La­goon has come a long way since its 2004 be­gin­nings, when it was a plain-speak­ing south In­dia curry house, beloved of its com­mu­nity but not well known be­yond. To­day, chef Joe Thot­tun­gal’s res­tau­rant is packed fans from many places, largely be­cause of the kitchen’s un­wa­ver­ing ded­i­ca­tion to the cook­ing meth­ods and au­then­tic in­gre­di­ents of Ker­ala cui­sine and the warmth of the front-of-house staff, led by Joe’s brother Ma­joe. Af­ter a ma­jor ren­o­va­tion of the res­tau­rant, in­side and out, Co­conut La­goon re­opened in the spring of 2017 in time for its 13th birth­day party, — big­ger, bolder, and thor­oughly spruced up.

The menu re­mains over­whelm­ingly south In­dian in fo­cus, the sig­na­ture dishes of Ker­ala — Tra­van­core fish curry, lamb Chet­ti­nad, Ko­valam lob­ster — tak­ing pride of place, but these now share the page with small, in­no­va­tive tast­ing plates. The few dishes that re­flect north­ern In­dia (but­ter chicken and dal Makhani, say) have been given south­ern aro­mas. The wine and beer lists, which in­clude lo­cal craft and Asian im­ports, have ex­panded as well, se­lected for their abil­ity to match the spices in these plates. 853 St. Lau­rent Blvd., co­conut­la­

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