Cat: “Al­ways lands on its feet.”

Whistler Traveller Magazine - - TASTE I DINING GUIDE -

* HRII : HGGHOO KaV EHHQ WKH VRPPHOLHU aW WKLV YHQHUaEOH CaQaGLaQ VWHaNKRXVH IRU VLx years and was re­cently ap­pointed Gen­eral Man­ager. Yet he in­sists that the suc­cess of the restau­rant’s wine pro­gram has noth­ing to do with his per­sonal whims. “I’m a tra­di­tion­al­ist,” he says. “In my opin­ion, a cel­lar should re­flect the menu and clien­tele, not the tastes of the Som­me­lier. I’m not go­ing to in­tro­duce any whacked- out Ital­ian va­ri­etals that no one’s ever heard of. I haven’t changed any­thing.” ( We think he’s be­ing mod­est.) Clas­sic steak­house such as it is, Hy’s leans to­ward red wines, which com­prise 75 per cent of the cel­lar. “Tan­nin struc­ture is the sin­gle most im­por­tant com­po­nent of pair­ing wLWK VWHaN,” : HGGHOO HxSOaLQV. “7KH SURWHLQV SUHVHQW LQ WKH VWHaN PaNH WKH wLQH’V astringent tan­nins melt into juicy fruiti­ness, but the tan­nins have to be strong enough VR LW’V a VyPSKRQy, QRW a ERxLQJ PaWcK.”

Pair­ing: La Stella Maestoso ‘ Solo’ Mer­lot 2009 with Gor­gonzola Filet Mignon

Maestoso is a term used by con­duc­tors and com­posers to in­di­cate when a mu­si­cal pas­sage is meant to sound large and tri­umphant. This hot- vin­tage mer­lot from the south­ern Okana­gan Val­ley cer­tainly is mas­sive. The wine is darkly opaque, lay­ered with jammy fruits, high in al­co­hol ( 15 per­cent) and propped up by chalky, bone- dry tan­nins. BXW wKHQ SaLUHG wLWK WKLV EHaXWLIXOOy charred medium- rare steak topped with melted blue cheese, ev­ery­thing tones GRwQ LQWR VRIW UaVSEHUUy QRWHV. “BaP!” says Wed­dell, strik­ing the ta­ble. “I hope the dif­fer­ence is quite dra­matic.” , W LV. BUaYR.

604- 905- 5555, hyssteak­house. com

GE­OFF WED­DELL GM AND SOM­ME­LIER, HY’S STEAK­HOUSE

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