Bearfoot Bistro 604-932-3433, bearfootbistro.com

At the Bearfoot Bistro, caviar goes hand in hand with the restaurant’s signature champagne sabering. Executive Chef Melissa Craig always has sturgeon eggs on the menu, in a traditional service with blinis and in a composed dish.

This winter, she is pairing Northern Divine with suitably luxurious Wagyu beef carpaccio in a gorgeous play on classic presentation that uses the caviar as a salty seasoning component: A deck of thinly sliced Wagyu is fanned over a pool of smoked mustard crème fraîche and garnished with dainty spoonfuls of caviar, egg (yolk and white) pearls, quail egg, chives, fried parsley and toasted brioche.

“Smoke and caviar go really well together,” says Craig, a huge caviar enthusiast with great admiration for Northern Divine.

“Granted, it’s not as fatty as beluga, but it’s the best Canadian product I’ve seen,” she says, pointing to the product’s restrained saltiness and creamy osetra-like texture. “And I love the fact that it’s local and sustainable.”