HONG REDISCOVERING KONG
Love of the cosmopolitan city comes on second sight
‘You look like you’re in trouble. Can I help you?” a young woman with hip, short hair asks me as she walks up to me in a side street. I was in Kowloon at night and had completely lost my orientation in a maze of curving streets.
Kay, a student, read my facial expression, then insisted on walking me right up to the MTR subway station that I needed to get back home. She also gave me her number, in case I needed more help. Kind, unsolicited help and going beyond all expectations, from a total stranger. That one incident helped cement my new appreciation for Hong Kong.
To be honest, I visited once years ago, and it was my least favourite “country” of the dozens that I’ve visited. It felt like a heartless, concrete jungle. Everyone was in a rush, and many were extremely rude; no one would help, even the bus drivers would not acknowledge my presence when I asked a simple question.
Things were different this time around.
The city offers a most interesting and fun mix of transport modes that gives you great options to get anywhere.
I took the subway, Star Ferry, Peak Tram, double-decker bus, bus, minibus, double- decker tram, taxis and even the Central to Mid Levels Escalator, the world’s longest covered outdoor escalator.
Before you start exploring, get an Octopus Card loaded with a few dollars. Available at any MTR station, one can use it for most transportation, including the MTR subway, trams, the Peak Tram, the Star Ferry, double-decker buses and some minibuses.
The view from Victoria Peak is arguably the most stunning of any skyline. I went up the peak on three times, taking the Peak Tram, the minibus and the bus.
If you’re crazy like me, you can soak up the view, capture brilliant images at dusk and sunset, then rush down the hill and take the subway across the water to the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront to get a completely opposite and different, but also dramatic, view of the skyline.
At 8 every night, there’s a photogenic light and sound show, A Symphony of Lights, involving lights from 40 buildings synchronized to music. It’s free to the public, but come early to get a good spot.
Regardless of budget, Hong Kong is a shopper’s paradise. For luxury brands, Canton Road in Kowloon has flagship stores of the top names — Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Gucci, Prada — all side by side. Absolutely no hint of a recession here. The LV shop had a velvetroped waiting line outside, with shoppers lined up, like the hottest club du jour.
I wandered through many of the street markets. Also in Kowloon, the Ladies Market, a bit of a misnomer, has clothing and accessories for men and kids, too. Lots of knock-offs, electronics and toys. Just a few blocks away, the Temple Street Night Market is more appealing and has more electronics and other assorted useful and useless stuff.
To refuel in between all the hard bargaining, there are many food stalls right beside the market. For a trip back in time, I visited the nearby Mido Cafe, a classic cha chain teng, literally a “tea food hall,” to try the milk tea. It retains all its interior decor and contents from the 1950s, right down to the tiles and cash register. It’s been featured in movies, and it feels like you’ve walked into a Wong Kar-wai film.
For lovers of antiques and art, Hollywood Road has the greatest concentration of antique shops and art galleries. The street’s name predates the more famous movie location in California and has nothing to do with it. You can just window-shop and admire the gorgeous furniture, collectibles and artwork.
Halfway down the road, I stopped by Man Mo Temple, dedicated to the god of literature and the god of war. Of the temples I visited, this one was the most impressive — it had hundreds of giant incense coils hanging from poles. Just in front of the temple, a few steps down Ladder Road led down to Cat Street, an alley with open-air souvenir shops and smaller antique shops. Unlike Hollywood Road, here tourists can find a dizzying array of small, affordable souvenirs.
As a culinary capital, Hong Kong definitely delivers. From won ton noodles at humble Mak’s, to fine dining with a skyline view at the Michelin-star-rated Nanhai No. 1, every meal was memorable. Dim sum was great everywhere: I tried duck tongue at Lei Garden, and the amazing crispy cha siu bao pork bun at Tim Ho Wan, the world’s cheapest Michelin-star-rated restaurant.
Many has more than 260 islands, and well over half the land is natural forest. I ventured into the more peaceful world and visited Lantau Island. Taking the Ngong Ping cable car to see the Tian Tan Buddha, I took a Crystal Cabin, which has a clear glass floor, and the lush forest below was in full view.
At the end of the line, we walked through a small village and up 268 steps to get close to the Buddha at the top of the hill. Up close, one can appreciate the magnificence of the 34-metrehigh, 230-tonne statue. T
he fog was alternately obscuring, covering and revealing parts of Buddha, heightening the serene, heavenly feel of the place.
After the hike up and down the steps, don’t skip the Po Lin Monastery beside it. The main temple has a striking interior with three gold Buddhas. The vegetarian lunch served by the monastery was superb.
Continuing with my break from the city’s bustle, I visited the Tai O fishing village, a picturesque collection of houses on stilts over the water. I sipped tea on the over-water balcony of a tiny restaurant while watching the fishermen mending their nets.
The Geopark is another appealing destination for nature lovers, with its eight distinct geological areas.
As I dropped off my bags at the downtown Cathay Pacific counter, they told me my flight out was delayed — an extra, precious hour to savour the beautiful city.
I took a walk down to the harbour. I breathed in the briny sea air and watched the Star Ferries crossing the harbour. It was hard to say goodbye.