Endives, ham offer a moment of comfort
Comfort food, Frenchstyle, is this combination of tender-steamed endives rolled in thinly sliced ham and baked under a creamy sauce.
It’s comforting to the cook, too, as you can make it ahead, refrigerate it covered, and reheat to go with a green salad and crusty bread.
Mimi Thorisson, author of French Country Cooking: Meals and Moments from A Village in the Vineyards (Appetite by Random House, $45), calls this dish “a great way to make children eat their vegetables.”
Her husband Oddur has packed the book with photographs so appealing that readers feel they have just spent a relaxing holiday in the couple’s château in the Médoc region of western France, enjoying lusty food and fine local wine.
This book should boost travel to France, or at least create converts to the easygoing cuisine of its 100 recipes. Although all parts of the menu are covered, the vegetable recipes — from potatoes mashed with fennel to Swiss chard au gratin to braised leeks vinaigrette — are the stars of the book.
ENDIVES WITH HAM
Serves: 6 6 endives 3 tbsp (45 mL) unsalted butter 1/3 cup (80 mL) all-purpose flour 2 cups (500 mL) milk ¼ tsp (1 mL) grated nutmeg Sea salt Freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp (30 mL) Dijon mustard 6 thin slices cooked ham 1 cup (250 mL) grated Gruyère or Emmantal cheese
1. Using a steamer, bring 2 inches (5 cm) of water to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Add steamer insert, making sure its bottom does not touch the water. Add endives to the steamer, cover with lid and steam until the endives are tender, about 15 minutes. (This may be done in advance and the steamed endives refrigerated, covered.)
2. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, start a béchamel sauce by melting butter and stirring in flour, whisking until smooth. Add milk, whisking constantly until smooth.
3. When the mixture comes to a boil, lower heat and simmer until thickened and creamy, for about 10 minutes. Remove sauce from heat and season to taste with nutmeg, salt and pepper.
4. Drain endives, their heads down as they retain water. Squeezing the endives in towels helps get rid of more water. Spread each endive with mustard and then roll in a slice of ham. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and arrange in a baking dish just large enough to hold the six rolls in a single layer.
5. Pour the béchamel sauce over all and sprinkle with grated cheese. (The dish may be covered and refrigerated for a day; bring to room temperature before baking.)
6. Bake in oven preheated to 350 F (180 C) until golden brown and bubbling, about 30 minutes.