Homegrown New England cooking
New England chef gets personal in debut cookbook, Laura Brehaut writes.
“The best food in the world speaks to relationships and it speaks to a sense of place,” chef Matt Jennings says. “If you can achieve that through the food that you make, then as a chef you’re doing your job as a storyteller.” Jennings’ debut cookbook, Homegrown, honours the cuisine of New England. It’s a celebration of the history, landscapes and flavours that make his home region unique.
“New England cuisine is everevolving,” he says. “In Boston, (I’m influenced) by the different cultures that come through the city as a gateway to the U.S. Embracing ... what that adds to the fabric of food is a huge part of what I do.” In Homegrown, baked-in-a-can brown bread calls for doenjang (Korean soybean paste). Jennings’s nouveau clam chowder — complete with a hit of seaweed and squid ink crackers — is followed by his mother’s classic “chowdah.” “A lot of my food hearkens back to food that I either grew up with or that influenced me. It comes from a place that’s a little bit more personal.”
Recipes excerpted from Homegrown: Cooking From My New England Roots by Matt Jennings (Artisan Books).
EVIE’S PUB CHEESE
Makes: 4 cups
(1 L); serves 8-10 as a snack
1 1/2 lb (680 g) finely grated Colby cheese
1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s
1/2 cup (125 mL) sour cream
1/2 cup (125 mL) cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 small white onion, grated on a box grater
2 tbsp (30 mL) finely minced red bell pepper
2 tbsp (30 mL) minced cornichon pickles
2 tbsp (30 mL) cornichon pickle juice
1 scallion, finely chopped
2 tsp (10 mL) onion powder
1 1/2 tsp (7.5 mL) Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp (5 mL) sweet Spanish paprika
1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
1 tsp (5 mL) ground turmeric
1 tsp (5 mL) celery seed, crushed
1 garlic clove, minced
10 dashes of hot sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Crackers, for serving
1. In a large bowl, combine the Colby cheese, mayonnaise, sour cream, cream cheese, onion, bell pepper, pickles and pickle juice, scallion, onion powder, Worcestershire, paprika, mustard, turmeric, celery seed, garlic and hot sauce.
2. Fold together with a rubber spatula until well mixed; season to taste with salt, black pepper, and hot sauce.
3. Serve the spread at room temperature with crackers. The cheese can be made up to 4 days ahead and refrigerated; bring to room temperature before serving.