Let’s hear it for Napa
Raise your glass to the nobility of America’s most famous wine region
A collection of fine wines from the Napa Valley takes centre stage at LCBO Vintages outlets this weekend. The Noble Napa thematic shines a spotlight on a corner of the world that has revolutionized how wine is made and marketed around the globe. The lustre surrounding Napa is strong. Despite only producing four per cent of the wines produced in the state of California, its reputation projects far wider than such meagre output. Now one of the wealthiest enclaves in the United States, Napa has become a four-letter word for luxury.
It wasn’t always this way, of course. Older members of the wine industry recall Napa in the 1960s and 1970s as a sleepy place where walnut trees were as common as grapevines. The change came thanks to pioneering forces such as Robert Mondavi, Bo Barrett and Heidi Peterson Barrett, who raised the profile of the region’s Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs to compete with the very best in the world. Virtually all over, farm crops were converted over to more lucrative grapevines. Global demand has seen prices for Napa wines, particularly its world-renowned Cabernets,
soar. Not surprisingly, most bottles featured in the current LCBO lineup ring up at more than $50. The current value of the Canadian dollar isn’t helping matters.
Those prices make even recommended selections, such as the Scattered Peaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($59.95, Vintages 639500) or Stag’s Leap Winery Merlot 2015 ($48.95, Vintages 655399), a once-a-year splurge for most consumers. Never mind that these are typically the entry-level wines. The prestige cuvées from most Napa producers can cost twice or three times that price.
Napa markets serious wines for serious — and well-heeled — consumers, but thankfully they aren’t the only game in town. For my money, Cabernet Sauvignon from neighbouring Sonoma County sparks similar joy for a more affordable price. Widening the horizons, terrific examples of Cabernet can be sourced from Australia, Chile and South Africa for less.