GREEN BARLEY `RISOTTO' WITH PEAS AND ASPARAGUS

Serves: 4

■ 1 cup (250 ml/180 g) pearl barley (see note)

■ 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil

■ 1 onion, chopped

■ 2 cups (480 ml) water, plus 7 tbsp (100 ml) if needed

■ 3/4 cup (175 ml) dry white wine 2 chicken or vegetable bouillon cubes

■ Salt and black pepper

■ 3/4 cup (175 ml/200 g) frozen petite peas

■ 4 to 5 tbsp (60 to 75 ml) crème fraîche

■ Grated zest of 1/2 lemon, plus 1 lemon, quartered

■ 7 oz (200 g) asparagus tips, trimmed and cut into pieces

■ Grated Parmesan or Grana Padano for serving

1. Wash the barley in a bowl of cold water and rinse in a sieve under cold running water.

2. Warm the olive oil in a large pan over low heat and fry the onion, stirring often, for 5-8 minutes, until soft but not coloured.

3. Pour in the 2 cups (480 ml) water and the wine, add the bouillon cubes and bring to a boil.

4. Pour in the barley, cover and simmer over low heat until the grain is tender, seasoning with salt and pepper midway through the cooking. It can take from 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the grain, whether is was soaked overnight, and on how soft you like it (see note).

5. Add the 7 tbsp (100 ml) water if it is dry. It should be very moist, with a little liquid. (If you let it sit, the grain will absorb any remaining liquid and become softer.)

6. Cook the peas in boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain, keeping the cooking water. Using an immersion blender, blend the peas to a rough purée, adding about 5 tbsp (75 ml) of the cooking water.

7. You can do all this in advance. Just before you are ready to serve, reheat the barley, adding a little water if needed. Reheat the pea purée and stir it into the barley, with the crème fraîche and lemon zest.

8. While the barley is reheating, poach the asparagus pieces in salted water for 2 minutes, or until they are al dente, then drain. Serve the barley with the asparagus on top. Garnish with the lemon quarters and the grated cheese.

Note: The instructions on my barley package say it takes 45 to 60 minutes, but it only takes about 30 if the grain is soaked overnight. If you do soak it overnight, you'll need less water — perhaps 1 2/3 cups

(395 ml).

PHOTOS: SUSAN BELL Though it's called “risotto,” this dish is easier to make because there's no need for continual stirring and no risk of overcooking, says Claudia Roden, who shares dishes she loves in her latest cookbook.