Store-bought hummus delicious served warm
I've made no secret of my disdain for most store-bought hummus. Compared to even mediocre homemade versions, the supermarket stuff is usually pasty and thick, and preservatives can contribute sharp, off flavours. There are exceptions, of course. But for the most part, nothing compares to the hummus you can make so quickly at home, even with canned chickpeas.
Another problem with storebought hummus is the temperature. As chef Michael Solomonov writes in his cookbook Zahav, referring to the hummusiyas in Israel, “Great hummus is never refrigerated. The best places make a big batch each morning and close the doors when it runs out, usually by mid-afternoon.”
Refrigeration mutes the balanced flavours of perfect hummus and, perhaps worse, makes it stiff. But the commercial stuff requires refrigeration (as do leftovers of your homemade version). So the simplest way to improve any cold hummus is by taking the chill off: microwave it or whisk in little hot water to loosen it up and return some of the silkiness to its texture.
Even better, you can bake it, as in this recipe from the U.k.based Leon chain of fast-food restaurants. As novel as the idea might seem, it's not new.
Chef Ana Sortun of Oleana and other restaurants outside Boston has been serving incredible warm, buttered hummus — her take on the traditional Turkish approach — for many years.
If you've never had warm hummus, this is a revelation. In this version, the tomatoes burst and add their juices to the mix, while the hummus puffs up.
It's absolutely stellar if you're using great homemade hummus, and it's pretty darn good with the store-bought stuff, too. It's the best recipe I can think of if you're interested in dip for dinner. Recipe is adapted from Leon Happy One-pot Vegetarian, by Rebecca Seal and Chantal Symons (Conran, 2022). The Washington Post
BAKED HUMMUS
Serves: 4 as a main with pita or other flatbread, or 8 as an appetizer dip
■ 3 cups (750 ml) store-bought or homemade hummus
■ 1 can (15 oz/430 ml) no-salt-added chickpeas or
■ 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed
■ 1 cup (250 ml) cherry tomatoes
■ 3 tbsp (45 ml) harissa
■ 1 tbsp (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
■ 1/2 tsp (2 ml) fine salt
■ 1/4 tsp (1 ml) freshly ground black pepper
■ 3 tbsp (45 ml) pine nuts, toasted (may substitute slivered almonds)
■ Flatbreads, for serving
1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425 F (220 C).
2. Spoon hummus into a 2-quart (2-L) baking dish. Mix in half the chickpeas and smooth out the top.
3. In a bowl, toss the remaining chickpeas with the cherry tomatoes, harissa, oil, salt and pepper until everything is evenly coated. Pour the mixture on top of the hummus.
4. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the tomatoes have burst and become soft and slightly burnished on top. Sprinkle with the toasted pine nuts and serve warm with flatbreads.
Note: Leftover hummus can be kept in the fridge for up to a week. Rewarm before serving.