Patagon Journal

The Chilean Patagonia Coast

- By Nicolas Piwonka

The Coastal Range that extends south of Chiloé lies partially submerged, creating a labyrinth of islands, channels and fjords that are accessible almost exclusivel­y by boat. It is a long and narrow territory that continues parallel to the Andes Range for

2,000 kilometers (1,242 miles) until it reaches the southern end of South America, Cape Horn. These were the terrains of the Chono, Kawésqar and Yámana nomadic people, who were maritime hunters or canoeists. Their first records date back 6,000 years.

Nowadays, most of this territory is uninhabite­d and its natural habitat is nearly unchanged from what it was when these canoeists –perfectly adapted to its demanding weather and intricate and freezing waters– witnessed it, which allows us to see it almost as they did then.

Seeking to unveil the secrets of this pristine area, during 2015 and 2016 I took a series of trips by air, land and sea, with the purpose of photograph­ing and divulging my findings in this book. Most of the time I sailed, as did the canoeists. The images show this barely known territory in three sections that correspond to the three geographic­al areas historical­ly inhabited and navigated by these nomadic human groups: the Chono people in the northern section, the Kawésqar in the central area, and the Yámana in the extreme South.

In spite of the pervasive rains that cover the landscape with a grey and mysterious veil, when the rain clears, everything is vivid with crisp, brilliant colors of such immense purity it leaves

the observer in awe. The region’s vastness is best appreciate­d then, with its lush green islands, surrounded by dark but generous sea. In such moments, life hums with unequalled beauty and harmony. These magical moments inspired me to patiently await a respite in the rain, so I could plunge with pleasure into my photograph­ic passion.

For me, photograph­y is emotion; it is what moves my hand to press the shutter and capture a shaft of light, or a sensation. As I sailed, flew and walked, both the immense and the tiny, the obvious and the subtle appeared in front of my eyes at every step, day after day. In this book of photograph­s, I wish to share those moments that left me marveled as a photograph­er and biologist. I hope I have managed to transmit the infinite beauty of these landscapes and the fascinatin­g life that inhabits it.

I invite you to discover the magic and charm of this corner of the planet.

 ??  ?? Jordán Island (closer), Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve and Cabo de Hornos National Park. Isla Jordán (más cerca), Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos y Parque Nacional Cabo de Hornos.
Jordán Island (closer), Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve and Cabo de Hornos National Park. Isla Jordán (más cerca), Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos y Parque Nacional Cabo de Hornos.
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 ??  ?? Above / Arriba: Messier Channel / Canal Messier.
Above / Arriba: Messier Channel / Canal Messier.
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 ??  ?? Above / Arriba: Forest floor in Kent Island, Las Guaitecas National Reserve. Piso del bosque en isla Kent, Reserva Nacional Las Guaitecas.
Above / Arriba: Forest floor in Kent Island, Las Guaitecas National Reserve. Piso del bosque en isla Kent, Reserva Nacional Las Guaitecas.
 ??  ?? Right / Derecha: Darwin’s fox, Parque Ahuenco, Isla Grande de Chiloé. Zorro chilote, Parque Ahuenco, Isla Grande de Chiloé.
Right / Derecha: Darwin’s fox, Parque Ahuenco, Isla Grande de Chiloé. Zorro chilote, Parque Ahuenco, Isla Grande de Chiloé.
 ??  ?? Above / Arriba: Gulf of Penas, and Mar Brava beach on Chiloé island Golfo de Penas, y Playa Mar Brava de Isla Grande de Chiloé.
Above / Arriba: Gulf of Penas, and Mar Brava beach on Chiloé island Golfo de Penas, y Playa Mar Brava de Isla Grande de Chiloé.
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 ??  ?? Right / Derecha: Costilla de vaca (cow’s rib) fern at Kelly Bay; a lichen on Kent Island; and a caterpilla­r at Pauldeo in Chiloé. Helecho cola de vaca en bahía Kelly; un liquen, isla Kent; y una oruga en Pauldeo, Isla Grande de Chiloé.
Right / Derecha: Costilla de vaca (cow’s rib) fern at Kelly Bay; a lichen on Kent Island; and a caterpilla­r at Pauldeo in Chiloé. Helecho cola de vaca en bahía Kelly; un liquen, isla Kent; y una oruga en Pauldeo, Isla Grande de Chiloé.
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 ??  ?? Above / Arriba: Peel Estuary and Campanario Mountain, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Estero Peel y cerro Campanario, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
Above / Arriba: Peel Estuary and Campanario Mountain, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Estero Peel y cerro Campanario, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
 ??  ?? Right / Derecha: Moss on polished stone, Iceberg Sound, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Musgo sobre la piedra pulida, seno Iceberg, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
Right / Derecha: Moss on polished stone, Iceberg Sound, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Musgo sobre la piedra pulida, seno Iceberg, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
 ??  ?? Above / Arriba: Ice flow, Baker Channel, Katalalixa­r National Reserve. Témpano, Canal Baker, Reserva Nacional Katalalixa­r.
Above / Arriba: Ice flow, Baker Channel, Katalalixa­r National Reserve. Témpano, Canal Baker, Reserva Nacional Katalalixa­r.
 ??  ?? Left / Izquierda: South Andean deer, Iceberg Sound, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Huemul, Seno Iceberg, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
Left / Izquierda: South Andean deer, Iceberg Sound, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Huemul, Seno Iceberg, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
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 ??  ?? Edeb harbour toad, Wellington Island, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Sapito de tres rayas, Puerto Edén, Isla Wellington, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
Edeb harbour toad, Wellington Island, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Sapito de tres rayas, Puerto Edén, Isla Wellington, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
 ??  ?? Flightless steamer ducks’s nest, Wellington Island, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Nido de pato quetru no volador, isla Wellington, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
Flightless steamer ducks’s nest, Wellington Island, Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. Nido de pato quetru no volador, isla Wellington, Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins.
 ??  ?? Above / Arriba: Humpback whale exhales and inhales before diving for food, Francisco Coloane Marine Park. Ballena jorobada exhala e inhala para sumergirse en busca de alimento, Parque Marino Francisco Coloane.
Above / Arriba: Humpback whale exhales and inhales before diving for food, Francisco Coloane Marine Park. Ballena jorobada exhala e inhala para sumergirse en busca de alimento, Parque Marino Francisco Coloane.
 ??  ?? Left / Izquierda: Peale’s Dolphin, Ventisquer­o Fjord, Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve. Delfín Austral, fiordo Ventisquer­o, Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos.
Left / Izquierda: Peale’s Dolphin, Ventisquer­o Fjord, Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve. Delfín Austral, fiordo Ventisquer­o, Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos.
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 ??  ?? Right / Derecha: Elephant Seals, Ainsworth Bay, Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve, Alberto de Agostini National Park. Elefantes marinos, bahía Ainsworth, Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos, Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
Right / Derecha: Elephant Seals, Ainsworth Bay, Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve, Alberto de Agostini National Park. Elefantes marinos, bahía Ainsworth, Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos, Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
 ??  ?? Left / Izquierda: Helado Sound, Kawésqar National Park and Francisco Coloane Marine Park. Seno Helado, Parque Nacional Kawésqar y Parque Marino Francisco Coloane.
Left / Izquierda: Helado Sound, Kawésqar National Park and Francisco Coloane Marine Park. Seno Helado, Parque Nacional Kawésqar y Parque Marino Francisco Coloane.
 ??  ?? Below / Abajo: Spider, Cook Island. Alberto de Agostini National Park. Araña, Isla Cook. Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
Below / Abajo: Spider, Cook Island. Alberto de Agostini National Park. Araña, Isla Cook. Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
 ??  ?? Coloane Estuary, Cloué Peninsula, Hoste Island, Alberto de Agostini National Park. Estero Coloane, península Cloué, Isla Hoste, Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
Coloane Estuary, Cloué Peninsula, Hoste Island, Alberto de Agostini National Park. Estero Coloane, península Cloué, Isla Hoste, Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
 ??  ?? Cormorán Imperial, Canal Beagle, Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos. Imperial shag, Beagle Channel, Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve.
Cormorán Imperial, Canal Beagle, Reserva de la Biósfera Cabo de Hornos. Imperial shag, Beagle Channel, Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve.

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