HOW TO GO / CÓMO IR

While it's theoretically possible to do this route by public transportation, a road trip is the best option. There are moderately priced car rental choices in Comodoro. Refill the tank in Camarones before heading to Bahía Bustamante.

Accommodations and food are limited in Camarones, but the Indalo Inn ( www. indaloinn. com. ar) has both, with especially good fish and seafood. Housing's better, and more stylish, at El Faro Casas del Mar (www.elfaro-patagonia.com), which overlooks the harbor. There's also a municipal campground.

Bahía Bustamante (www. bahiabustamante.com) is totally self- contained, for both accommodations and dining. The lodging options include “superior” sea cabins with ocean views, somewhat simpler “standard” sea cabins, and smaller “steppe” cabins, whose price doesn't include activities or meals but do offer kitchen facilities.

Puerto Deseado's accommodations are disappointing, so it's best to look for a rental apartment. Otherwise, Hotel Los Olmos is plain but acceptable. Hotel Los Acantilados has greater pretensions and a better setting, but the rooms are cramped. Puerto Cristal has outstanding fish and seafood, including exquisite Patagonian toothfish.