Madagascar’s classic cars trundle on and on

ANTANANARIVO, Madagascar — Once a common sight across Europe, muchloved French cars from a bygone era rattle along the streets of Madagascar’s capital Antananarivo, doing their duty as private vehicle, taxis or even police cars.

The Renault 4L and the Citroen 2CV, which have made way for sleek younger models elsewhere, are still part of daily life on the Indian Ocean island, battling up its steep hills and wheezing toward top speed on its main roads.

“There’s no question of a car chase,” admitted one uniformed police officer sitting in his white 4L, complete with a rooftop beacon and police signage, parked on guard close to the presidential palace.

“But it does have the advantage of not consuming much petrol,” he added.

Nearby, in the shade of jacaranda trees, several other 4Ls and 2CVs serve as taxis waiting for customers.

The two models are celebrated worldwide as masterpieces of design, representing Europe’s post-war boom and the explosion of car ownership — but their heyday has long passed.

Rijason Randrianantoanina, a 37-year-old taxi driver, is proud of his “magnificent” 2CV, which he has owned for 16 years.

“It was made in 1978, but it’s a solid car,” he said.

The body is suffering from some patches of deep rust and the fuel gauge does not work anymore.

The 2CV tank contains only 28 liters, and its driver must be a good judge of petrol usage.

“I have a gauge in my head, you just have to get used to it,” he said.

Starting from the 1960s, 2CVs and 4Ls were imported into Madagascar from France and Belgium, while models were also assembled on the island until the 1980s.

It was while working at the Somacoa plant that Elysee Rakotondrakolona learnt to dismantle and erect the quirky 4L.

He is now the go-to 4L mechanic in Antananarivo, in the busy, working-class district of Antoamadinika.

In his open-air garage, squeezed between an “aesthetic hairstyle” salon and a doughnut stand, the chassis of old 4Ls are piled on top of each other.

Here, resourcefulness reigns supreme. “I take parts from Renault 5s for the front axle unit of the 4L,” said Rakotondrakolona, wearing blue work overalls almost as old as some of his wrecks. Our national specialty as Madagascans is that when you see two pieces that look alike, we know how to adapt them. It is the ‘makedo-and-mend’ system.”

The only problem that is unsolvable is a broken gearbox. “Then, there is nothing to do,” he said.