Fur sheds its staid im­age

With ad­vanced tech­niques and modern de­signs, fur is no longer just for grandma’s closet

China Daily - - FASHION - By XU HAOYU [email protected]­nadaily.com.cn

Afash­ion show on Oct 23 sought to re­vamp the im­age of fur with modern styles and covetable looks.

With the theme “Ur­ban Chill”, the show fea­tured modern de­signs and ad­vanced pro­cess­ing tech­niques.

Jointly hosted by Saga Furs and the Bei­jing In­sti­tute of Fash­ion Tech­nol­ogy In­no­va­tion Park (BiftPark), the show fea­tured the rep­re­sen­ta­tive col­lec­tions of eight of China’s most iconic fur brands — Bran­don Sun made by HK Fur Fac­tory Ltd, Fele­fasa, KC Fur, Lanca Joint Fur, Mary­glenn, Osstina, Top Fa­bu­tion33 and YLF.

Saga Furs is an in­ter­na­tional fur auc­tion house head­quar­tered in Hel­sinki, Fin­land, that was founded in 1938. Its name is a Nordic-Ger­manic word, mean­ing the end­less story. It has built a rep­u­ta­tion for tightly mon­i­tor­ing the pro­duc­tion chain for fur ma­te­ri­als, wide se­lec­tion of high qual­ity furs, and the de­sign and de­vel­op­ment ca­pa­bil­ity of Saga Fur De­sign Cen­tre in Europe.

As early as 20 years ago, the auc­tion house started work­ing with the Bei­jing In­sti­tute of Fash­ion Tech­nol­ogy, open­ing a de­sign project for fur trim­ming, giv­ing pro­fes­sional lec­tures and spon­sor­ing grad­u­a­tion projects to con­trib­ute to the pro­mo­tion of Chi­nese fur de­sign.

With a multi­na­tional de­signer team, Saga Furs is try­ing to con­nect with the younger gen­er­a­tion through youth­ful fash­ion such as vests and base­ball shirts, youth­ful col­ors such as pink and the use of ma­te­ri­als such as lace.

The de­sign­ers used the nat­u­ral shad­ing of fur to cre­ate stripe-ef­fect pieces with depth. Sil­ver and blue fox were al­ter­nated, fox jack­ets were con­structed in waves so the un­der wool showed up in streaks of lighter color, or di­ag­o­nal bands of plucked mink were placed on sheared mink.

In­tar­sia was used to cre­ate artis­tic an­i­mal prints and ab­stract pat­terns that high­lighted the nat­u­ral beauty of the var­i­ous fur col­ors. Mink and fox fur were spliced with ma­te­ri­als with con­trast­ing tex­ture, and the geo­met­ric pat­terns and let­ters cre­ated by fur made full use of their dif­fer­ent tex­tures.

Street style el­e­ments have been ap­plied to the fur de­sign. Matched with denim jack­ets and sweaters, nor­mally high-end furs, such as fox and mink, had a more easy­go­ing and ca­sual look.

As sports­wear has be­come in­creas­ingly pop­u­lar fash­ion choice, the de­sign­ers have not missed the chance to give it a fur twist. Coats with fur lin­ings were de­signed for out­door sports such as golf, pro­vid­ing com­fort and warm, while al­low­ing move­ment.

Pop­u­lar dra­mas also pro­vided in­spi­ra­tion. The US drama Game of

Thrones pro­moted the wide ap­pli­ca­tion of long­hair fox fur. And Mo­randi col­ors, which are col­ors with low sat­u­ra­tion in gray tones, have been pop­u­lar­ized by one of the hottest Chi­nese dra­mas re­cently, Story of

Yanxi Palace. They were given a dif­fer­ent in­ter­pre­ta­tion with furs dyed in birch sil­ver, sea bream pur­ple, and rose gray.

Eight brands, dif­fer­ent looks

Bran­don Sun gath­ered de­sign­ers from dif­fer­ent coun­tries in­clud­ing Italy and Korea. It show­cased de­con­struc­tion as means to break the tra­di­tional look of fur cloth­ing, fo­cus­ing on strong con­trasts and ex­ag­ger­ated shapes through the re­or­ga­ni­za­tion of el­e­ments. Lux­u­ri­ous raw ma­te­ri­als cre­ated an avant­garde look in­flu­enced by the util­i­tar­i­an­ism of street style. The coats made with dif­fer­ent kinds furs, com­bined with re­flec­tive ny­lon rib­bons, looked young and dy­namic, with large metal tex­tured jew­elry em­pha­siz­ing the punk rock genes of the brand.

Fele­fasa is a brand rooted in the phi­los­o­phy of “na­ture”. It brought a col­lec­tion of fur gar­ments made of mink and dec­o­rated with fox and squir­rel fur.

KC Fur com­bined the Mil­len­nial Gen­er­a­tion fash­ion of the United States West Coast with fox skin and mink from Saga Furs. The strong con­trast of col­ors, the rhythm of long and short hair, and the young sil­hou­ette of wide sleeves gave a con­tem­po­rary feel to the col­lec­tion.

The founder of the Ital­ian brand Lanca has been ac­tive in the fur in­dus­try since the early 1970s. With more than 40 years of ex­pe­ri­ence, he tries to ex­press pure Ital­ian fash­ion with his team. He in­tro­duced fur sports­wear in­clud­ing jack­ets, base­ball shirts in match­ing col­ors such as black, blue and green.

Mary­glenn says el­e­gance is a com­pul­sory el­e­ment in the phi­los­o­phy of the brand, which fea­tures com­bi­na­tions of dif­fer­ent col­ors and furs that strike a bal­ance be­tween their strong per­son­al­i­ties and har­mony.

With the var­i­ous totem pat­terns, por­traits and ab­stract graph­ics, in­clud­ing the im­age of the Mona Lisa, Osstina used sim­ple sil­hou­ettes to set off its col­li­sions of col­ors, di­a­logues be­tween stripes and pat­terns, and con­trasts of ma­te­ri­als. The col­lec­tion was aimed at modern ur­ban­ites.

Top fa­bu­tion33 brought a col­lec­tion dom­i­nated by black and gray, con­trasted with dark pink. The over­all shapes were sim­ple, smooth and slen­der, but with de­con­struc­tion and asym­me­try used to good ef­fect.

Es­tab­lished in 1992, the last brand YLF is from Bei­jing. The brand tar­gets ur­ban men and women who en­joy a ca­sual life­style. It chose to ex­press the ur­ban sprit by match­ing its fur de­signs with sports shoes and leather pants. The dyed furs formed groups of let­ters, used in con­junc­tion with white ot­ter fur to high­light the pur­suit of new modern im­age fur. The bran’s use of denim, fur in­tar­sia, and print­ing on fur also helped it break the tra­di­tional im­age of fur.

“In the past, peo­ple would as­so­ciate fur cloth­ing with their grandma’s closet. Many peo­ple have an im­age of long­hair fur coat in black or brown in their head. Fur used to be di­vorced from the younger gen­er­a­tion. There was not much choice when it came to fur style,” says Saman­tha Ve­sala, the Chief Busi­ness Of­fi­cer of Saga Furs Asia. “But now is dif­fer­ent. With ad­vanced tech­niques and modern de­sign, fur no longer looks out­dated.”

The “Ur­ban Chill” fea­tured the rep­re­sen­ta­tive col­lec­tions of eight of China’s most iconic fur brands.

PHO­TOS PRO­VIDED TO CHINA DAILY

With ad­vanced tech­niques and modern de­sign, fur no longer looks out­dated.

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