LATE-NIGHT EATS WITH LAM MING KIN OF LONGTAIL

“After a shift, I usually take my team to one of the many spicy hotpot restaurants around town. The mala hotpot at Chan Chi Hot Pots Lab ( 178 Nanjing East Rd. Sec. 2) is a personal favorite, and the complexity and depth of the flavors inspired me to create Longtail’s beef tenderloin with mala sauce and spring garlic puree. I also enjoy hitting up Linjiang Street Night Market, one of the few locally popular night markets that isn’t full of tourist traps. Try the marinated chicken at Honghua Yanshui Ji ( 99 Linjiang St.) and seek out Ice Wonderland ( 56 Tonghua St.) for traditional Taiwanese desserts like aiyu, a natural gelatin served with lemon over ice.”