CAFÉ LIFE

“The best thing to do in Tangier is sit in the cafés and watch the people,” a longtime expat told me on my first visit to Tangier. That advice still stands. Start at the Gran Café de Paris. Opened in 1927 on the Place de France, it remains the best choice to observe the vibrant city over mint tea. In the medina, the terrace of Café Tingis is a longtime favorite and obligatory stop. For a more private drink, head for the rooftop terrace of Hotel Nord Pinus ( nord-pinus-tanger.com) or the secluded, baroque salon at Aux 3 Portes ( aux3portes.com), both in the Kasbah.