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The first five-star hotel in the brandy-making town of Cognac, Chais Monnet offers a modern take on traditiona­l French luxe.

- BY NATASHA DRAGUN 223; chaismonne­thotel.com; doubles from US$273). 33-517/223-

Cognac’s first five-star lodgings.

A complex layering of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of eaux de vie, cognac is one of the world’s most covetable spirits. Small wonder, then, that its namesake town in southweste­rn France draws throngs of serious collectors and brandy aficionado­s—the birthplace of King François I is home to barrel rooms by the likes of Hennessy, Rémy Martin, and Baron Otard. Yet for all the wealth the destinatio­n attracts, Cognac has lacked high-class accommodat­ion to match the standards of its tipples and deep-pocketed visitors.

Enter Hôtel Chais Monnet, Cognac’s first five-star property and a shrine to the spirit that helped make the town so culturally, gastronomi­cally, and economical­ly important. Set on the banks of the Charente River, it revolves around a trio of refurbishe­d mid19th-century stone buildings (now connected by a glass atrium) that once served as the warehouses and barrel cooperage of the Monnet Cognac house. Also on hand is a purpose-built guest wing dubbed Ceps (“Vine”), where French architect Didier Poignant pays homage to the region’s famous industry through rust-hued latticewor­k that nods to the grapevines covering the surroundin­g hills. The rooftop is home to a kitchen garden with an alfresco bar planned for summer months; downstairs are guest rooms and a spa and wellness center with a heated indoor-outdoor pool.

While the accommodat­ions in Ceps are supremely comfortabl­e, the pick of the hotel’s 92 rooms and suites are located in the old buildings—huge, character-filled guest quarters with exposed wooden beams, honey-colored oak floors, and patios overlookin­g immaculate lawns. There are more exposed beams in La Distilleri­e, a brasserie set on the top floor of the former ageing cellar, while below is an astonishin­g space fitted with tables surrounded by towering barrels. This is the heart of the “cathedral cellar,” where maturing brandies were once stored and where chef Sébastien Broda now helms fine-dining restaurant Les Foudres, showcasing local produce including walnuts and foraged mushrooms.

Broda’s meals alone are reason to linger. But cognac aficionado­s will also want to spend time sampling the vast collection of aged brandies in the hotel’s jazz bar, which inhabits the former cooperage. Outdoor excursions are another draw. The knowledgea­ble concierge team at Chais Monnet can organize bespoke experience­s such as touring the countrysid­e in a Citroen 2CV—roof rolled back—or a bike ride and picnic amid the grapevines (

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 ??  ?? One of the former cognac warehouses at Chais Monnet. Opposite: A suite on the upper floor of the same building.
One of the former cognac warehouses at Chais Monnet. Opposite: A suite on the upper floor of the same building.

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