Getting There

With no direct flights between Tehran and Southeast Asia (save for a five-timesweekly Kuala Lumpur service operated by Iran’s largest private airline, Mahan Air), you’ll have to fly through Europe or the Middle East. Emirates ( emirates.com) offers the most convenient connections, via Dubai. Where to Stay Artist Residence Tehran Aramis Hotel Rooms & Suites One of the city’s newest hotels comes with boutique lodgings, a central location off Vali Asr Square, and a café that makes surprisingly good Italian-style coffee. 98-21/8893-3401; tehranaramishotel.com; doubles from US$162