A Taste of the North

Myanmar, China, and Laos can all claim to have influenced the culinary offerings of northern Thailand, where a cooler mountain climate and verdant forests are to thank for stellar produce, including a wide variety of roots, herbs, and vegetables.

Once the domain of the ancient Lanna Kingdom, Thailand’s mountainous north, which includes the verdant provinces of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, remains home to the majority of the country’s ethnic groups, meaning that diners can look forward to fare heavily influenced by geography.

There are many sour and bitter flavors used in cooking, especially in dishes such as kaeng ho, which sees curry refried with glass noodles with pickled bamboo shoots and lemongrass added. Glutinous rice is often served on the side to be rolled into balls by hand before being dipped into sauces.

Hugely popular in Myanmar, khao soi (a curry broth with egg noodles and chicken, pork, or beef) also makes an appearance in northern Thailand, as do kaeng hang lay (a pork curry seasoned with ginger, tamarind and turmeric) and kaeng yuak, made with banana palm hearts.

Handmade sausages are a regional specialty, and among the favorites are sai ua, a flavorful blend of pork, dried chilies, garlic, shallots, and lemongrass—make no mistake, this sausage will get your heart pumping. Another favorite is a raw sausage called naem maw, made with ground pork, pork rind, sticky rice, garlic, and chili; the meat is “cooked” by a fermentation process that occurs when it is stored in ceramic pots.

Northern Thailand is also a haven for noodle lovers. In Chiang Mai, the Burmese-style khao soi egg noodle soup is a standout and often comes with pickled cabbage, lime, and chili. Woon sen noodles, made from mung-bean starch, are another highlight. They’re commonly added to curries, soups, and stir-fries.

Perhaps the most common festive meal in the north is khantoke, a sort of Lanna-style banquet that sees diners gather around low circular tables made to enjoy small plates while watching cultural performances.